Hands-on Gear Review

Omega Pacific Jake Review

Omega Pacific Jake
Price:  $17 List | $12.71 at MooseJaw
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Cool gate design, good gate clearance, smooth rope pull
Cons:  Heavy, bulky, gate gets hung up
Editors' Rating:   
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Gate Closed Strength (KN):  22
Sideway Strength (KN):  10
Manufacturer:   Omega Pacific

Our Verdict

Omega Pacific's Jake is a solid belay, rappel and top rope carabiner. It's heavy for multi-pitch missions. For that we would go with something like the Petzl Attache. The Jake held multiple knots/slings better than other locking biners we reviewed except the Black Diamond Rocklock and DMM Boa, which held more. This surprised us because we figured the side-swing gate would out perform them. In general, we would go with the Black Diamond Rocklock, which is lighter and cheaper. If you want the ultimate large biner, go with the DMM Boa. It partially comes down to how much you like the unique sideways gate. While it does give more clearance, it is not dramatically more clearance than other large carabiners so it's more about how much you like this unique design.


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Our Analysis and Test Results

Review by:
Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

Last Updated:
Wednesday
April 7, 2010

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The Different Versions of the Omega Pacific Jake


The Jake is also available in the Quick Lok version, and the 3-Stage Quick Lok. Omega Pacific reports that with the 3-Stage, the shape orients the load and prevents loading the nose of the biner.

Check out the side-by-side comparison below, with the Quick Lok pictured on the left, the Screw Lock (reviewed here) in the middle, and the 3-Stage shown on the right.
Omega Pacific Jake Quick Lok
Omega Pacific Jake
Omega Pacific Jake 3-Stage

Hands-On Review


Likes


This carabiner stands our for its custom side-swing gate that gives you better gate clearance than some other carabiners. It also has a thick rounded design that lets the rope run very smoothly, especially when using a munter hitch. There is lots space for multiple knots or slings and the Omega scored near the top for how many ropes would fit into it.

Dislikes


This carabiner is a bit on the heavy and bulky size. Many carabiners of a similar size are lighter. Surprisingly, despite its gate design, it didn't score great for having five knots in it because there is not a lot of area from the bottom of the gate to the bottom of the biner. The gate notch gets hung up easily - on this it got the lowest score in our test. The screw gate version was one of the slowest to twist shut.

Best Application


Good belay/rappel biner because of its smooth rope handling. The screw-lock model works well for an anchor or backup biner while the quik-lock gate is a great belay/rappel biner. This is a great locking biner for winter because it is also one of the largest pear-shaped biners, making it easier to handle with gloves.

Value


This $16 carabiner falls in the middle of the value range. It is not cheap like a $10-12 value biner but also not in the $20 range like many of its competitors. Based on how durable it is, it has good long-term value.
Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)

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   Apr 18, 2014 - 03:57pm
Rankin · Climber · Greensboro, North Carolina
I use one as a belay biner and I like it despite the extra weight. I don't use it for alpine though. It's hilarious that the reviewer gives it a lower score for rope pulling than the Petzl Attache 3D because the size and more uniform roundness of the Jake make it much better for rope pulling compared with the 3D, and it's not even close. My partners tend to climb with fatter ropes, and it's so difficult to belay in reverso mode with the 3D (using fatter ropes over 10mm) that I don't bother. But no such problem with the Jake. In reality, the rope feeds more smoothly in all belaying and rappelling applications. Also, if you prefer to clip through the waist belt and leg loops rather than just the belay loop, these larger biners allow it comfortably. Yes, it's heavy and bulky, but if the rest of your biners are comically small and light like mine, you can afford the extra 40 grams on your rack.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Climber

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   Aug 14, 2010 - 12:50pm
TGT · Climber · So Cal
I've switched to this for a belay biner.

I got tired of the BD Airlock that they sell with the harness or ATC constantly stabilizing in a cross-loaded configuration. Why they sell this design (it's only sold with an ATC or harness) for this use is a bit baffling.

Since this design is symmetrical, round on both ends, and has a concave spine it will flip backwards but inherently won't stabilize and stay in a cross-loaded position.

It is a bit heavy though and has much less room for knots than its appearance would suggest.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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