Metolius Element Review
Cons: Heavy, on the small side for hitches, many twists needed to open gate
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|Pros||Compact, affordable, rope runs easily over round stock||Versatile, lightweight, relatively affordable, lots of gate clearance, gate security stripe||Very light, affordable, visual indicator on screw gate, full-sized offset-D||Affordable! Light, small, easy to use||Affordable, fairly light, nice gate action|
|Cons||Heavy, on the small side for hitches, many twists needed to open gate||Screwgate can get stuck closed, aluminum I-beam construction wears out quicker than some||Gate spring squeeks, less versatile than HMS style||More revolutions of screw gate to open and close||Many twists needed to open and close screwgate, slightly heavier than competitors|
|Bottom Line||Bridging the gap between compact and pear shaped lockers||The best and most versatile locker at a reasonable price||This lightweight offset-D is not only a perfect choice for the budget conscious, but for anyone who wants top performance||The most affordable lightweight locker presents excellent value||An affordable and solid full sized offset-D locker|
|Rating Categories||Metolius Element||Petzl Attache||CAMP USA Photon Lock||Mad Rock Super Tech...||Black Diamond HotFo...|
|Overall Utility (25%)|
|Ease of Unlocking and Locking (25%)|
|Compactness and Weight (20%)|
|Gate Security (20%)|
|Gate Clearance (10%)|
|Specs||Metolius Element||Petzl Attache||CAMP USA Photon Lock||Mad Rock Super Tech...||Black Diamond HotFo...|
|Weight||74 g||57 g||44 g||45 g||48 g|
|Gate Closed Strength (KN)||24||22||23||24||24|
|Sideways Strength (KN)||8||7||8||8||8|
|Gate Open Strength (KN)||8||6||9||9||8|
|Gate Clearance (cm)||2.1 cm||2.6 cm||1.8 cm||1.7 cm||1.8 cm|
|Visual Locking Indicator?||No||Yes||Yes||No||No|
|Lock Closure Type||Screw-lock||Screw-lock||Screwgate||Screw-lock||Screwgate|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Metolius Element Keylock is a pear-shaped locker, and so its best use is as a belay locker for trad belaying. It's very compact, but is considerably heavier than most comparable options, a noticeable downside that in our mind really limits its use. Regardless of the intended purpose, we want the lightest product that can adequately do the job, and in many ways the Element feels like a throwback to a previous age of climbing equipment, rather than embracing the lighter weight I-beam designs that have nearly halved the weight of similar locking carabiners.
The Element is quite versatile, as its pear shape has the advantage of being good for belaying while minimizing rope friction on the 'biner. We like it best bringing up the second with a Petzl Reverso, as the lack of friction caused by a thin offset-D locker allows for easier pulling of the ropes without stressing our elbows. While it is the same size as a lightweight/compact offset-D, there are more uses for it. That said, as it's far more compact than other HMS shaped lockers, it doesn't as easily fit clove or Munter hitches, and isn't as easy to clip many items to.
Ease of Unlocking and Locking
The patterned metal screwgate is easy to grip in our fingers and has a very buttery smooth action as it twists around the gate. However, we noticed that it required the most twists of any screwgate tested to go from fully open to fully closed: 12 ½ half twists, or just over six full twists. By comparison the easiest of the screwgate locker requires only four half twists or two full revolutions to go from fully open to closed, and is therefore much quicker and easier to open and close.
Compactness and Weight
Our Element Keylock weighed 74g on our independent scale. This is almost twice the weight of the lightest compact locker, which weighs a mere 41g. It is also around 18g heavier than our Editors' Choice winner, the best pear shaped locker we tested, which is also larger, and therefore a bit more versatile. While we appreciated its compact size, the Element honestly feels like a bit of a relic in a modern age of new designs intended to minimize weight.
Like all screwgate lockers, the gate is plenty secure as long as the climber remembers to properly close it every time. Screw gate lockers will never be quite as secure as auto-lockers for this reason. They are also best oriented with gravity, that is, basket side down when locked closed, so any vibrations caused by movement of the rope doesn't assist in the gate unlocking itself, which can happen. We rated this screw gate the same as most of the others when it comes to gate security.
At 2.1cm of gate clearance, the Element Keylock offers a surprisingly large opening for a locker so small, far more than any of the other compact lockers we tested. This helps make it more versatile for fitting multiple ropes when rappelling or when tying a clove hitch.
The low price of these lockers is one of their principal advantages. They are certainly the most affordable pear shaped locker. While there are some downsides, such as weight and a slow to open gate, we think they are a pretty decent value purchase.
The Metolius Element Keylock is a small, round stock, pear shaped locker that fits a niche unfilled by any other. It is the size of a compact locker, but has the desirable and versatile pear shape. It is also very affordable. That said, it is quite heavy compared to the competition, which is the main downside one must weigh against its benefits.
— Andy Wellman
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