REASONS TO BUY
Comfortable all-day-long fit
Breaks in fast
Sensitive
Good heel-hooking
Great value
Nice look
REASONS TO AVOID
Loose fit
Toes curl up out-of-the-box wears out fast
Not best for extreme edging
Evolv Defy Black Review
A great shoe for beginners or those looking for a dedicated gym climbing shoe
Credit: Evolv
RELATED: Best Climbing Shoes of 2023
Our Verdict
The Evolv Defy is a tried and true value shoe. Although it has received multiple updates over the years, the rubber remains the same high friction 4.2mm TRAX with a 1mm half-length midsole, and the overall design has stayed consistent. The pointy toe and Velcro closure are similar to many of the top-rated shoes out there. It is one of the best-selling shoes at many climbing gyms and according to evolvsports.com is one of the best-selling shoes in the world. Because it is around half the price of many high-end shoes, we think this model is an excellent choice for beginners that are still developing precise footwork.
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
Evolv Defy Black | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  | | |||
| Price | $108.95 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $129 List $129.00 at REI | $89 List $89.00 at REI | $75.00 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $100 List $99.95 at REI |
Overall Score  |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Pros | Comfortable all-day-long fit, breaks in fast, sensitive, good heel-hooking, great value, nice look | Comfortable design, respectable edging, low-profile toe, excellent price | Affordable, flat midsole is comfortable all day, well-balanced performance across many areas | Easy on and off, comfortable, "thin" profile | Durable, inexpensive, easy on/off |
| Cons | Loose fit, toes curl up out-of-the-box wears out fast, not best for extreme edging | Mediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitive | Insensitive, imprecise fit, ineffective design for steep terrain | Stretch a lot, not great for edging | Not great at edging, uncomfortable for wider feet |
| Bottom Line | A great shoe for beginners or those looking for a dedicated gym climbing shoe | Decent overall climbing performance at an affordable price make these a sold choice | An entry-level shoe ideal for beginners that comes at an awesomely low price | These shoes are great for hand cracks and training in the gym | If the shoe fits, the Momentum is a fine choice for a new climber looking to save some money |
| Rating Categories | Evolv Defy Black | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantu... | Five Ten Moccasym | Black Diamond Momentum |
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Steep Terrain (20%) | |||||
| Sensitivity (20%) | |||||
| Specs | Evolv Defy Black | La Sportiva Finale | La Sportiva Tarantu... | Five Ten Moccasym | Black Diamond Momentum |
| Style | Velcro | Lace | Lace | Slipper | Velcro |
| Upper | Elastic Synthratek synthetic upper | Eco Leather / microfiber | Leather/Synthetic | Leather | Synthetic knit |
| Width Options | Regular | Regular | Regular | Regular | Regular |
| Lining | Nylon | Unlined | None | Unlined | Hemp |
| Rubber Type | TRAX XT-5 | Vibram XS Edge | FriXion RS | Stealth C4 | Neo Friction |
| Rubber Thickness | 4.2 mm | 5 mm | 5 mm | 4.2 mm | 4.3 mm |
Show full specification detailsHide full specification details
Our Analysis and Test Results
Performance Comparison
If you're looking to get into climbing, the Evolv Defy is a great intro shoe, offering enough performance features to get you off the ground, comfort to keep you in the game, and a nice price. Veterans of the sport will find a solid shoe for training and gym climbing. These shoes aren't the best edgers out there, but they're sensitive on slabs and comfortable in cracks.
Evolv Defy
Credit: Chris Summit
Edging
If you don't have the best footwork, these shoes aren't going to make up for it, and you may find yourself skating off small footholds. The soft, imprecise Defy does not edge well compared to many stiffer shoes. If you're mostly using this shoe to train in the gym, this likely won't be a huge problem because they will demand better, more precise footwork. Also, training with these can help you appreciate more expensive, performance shoes when it comes time to send at the real crag.
Crack Climbing
These shoes perform adequately in hand-sized cracks, and if your foot is on the narrow side, they may even feel comfortable due to the padded tongue. Our wide-footed lead tester, however, felt a lot of pain while jamming in these shoes. For optimal comfort in cracks, consider wider shoes and possibly a lace or slipper closure to avoid the Velcro buckles acting as irritating pressure points.
Steep Terrain
A shoe's performance on pocketed climbs is a function of edging ability and the shape of the toe. The toe box of the Defy is pointy compared to some other shoes so that it can fit into smaller pockets, but sloppy edging makes it a poor choice for your next pocket pulling project. In the gym, footholds are usually jugs and jibs, so any pocket deficiencies shouldn't be a big problem. When it was time for a heel hook, we did notice a little extra space and less precision in the heel cup.
Evolv Defy volcanic pocket test
Credit: Chris Summit
Sensitivity
Soft shoes are usually very sensitive, and the Defy is no exception. Our testers could feel the holds under their feet, but this means that you also need strong toes and good footwork to make them stick. The tradeoff with these seems to be enhanced sensitivity in exchange for faster foot fatigue.
Evolv Defy granite knob test
Credit: Chris Summit
Comfort
When sized in the neutral position with their toes just touching the end of the shoe, our testers felt blissful, near-walking-shoe-like comfort. And that is the point of the Defy. If you're new to climbing and you pop these shoes on, you'll be able to keep climbing with terrible discomfort. If you're looking for a cheap shoe exclusively for training, size them a little tighter. They won't be quite as comfortable, but the performance will be better.
Value
The Defy is one of the best deals out there. If you're new to climbing or the airline lost your luggage, and you need new shoes right now, don't hesitate to grab yourself a pair and have fun.
Evolv Defy
Credit: Chris Summit
Conclusion
These shoes are super popular among new climbers. Once they're hooked, they'll probably start sinking all their riches into better performing shoes, a rack of ultralight cams, and a new Sprinter van. With the Defy, you can save a little money upfront and prepare yourself for the financial destruction of a full-blown rock climbing addiction.
—
Matt Bento
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