Released over a year ago, the Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco is designed with an emphasis on all-day comfort, adjustability, and sensitivity. The soft leather uppers are ideal for folks who place comfort above other features as a priority. Right out of the box, we put the Maestro Mid Eco on and didn't look back — these shoes require little-to-no break-in period. Though they are fairly flat, the Maestro has a tiny downturn that allows them a bit more versatility and a higher level of performance than other trad-oriented shoes. The eco-leather used in their construction is insanely soft and a welcome respite from the painful, rubber-encased, aggressively-shaped shoes we are used to.Comfort aside, these shoes were all-around high performers — from edging to jamming. An all-day romp in the backcountry or up a wall in Yosemite is ideal for these shoes. Their comfort and impressive performance across the board ranks the Maestro Mid Eco as our latest Top Pick for Crack Climbing and All-Day Comfort.
Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco - Women's Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Super comfortable, medium stiffness provides versatility, very adjustable
Cons: Expensive, not great for sport climbing or bouldering
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Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco - Women's
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|Pros||Super comfortable, medium stiffness provides versatility, very adjustable||Great edging shoe, precise, versatile||Comfortable, high performance, sticky rubber, easy to put on, good in cracks, versatile||Inexpensive, comfortable, easy to get on and off||Inexpensive, easy to adjust, comfortable, soft leather upper|
|Cons||Expensive, not great for sport climbing or bouldering||Specific shape can cause discomfort for some, expensive||Stretch out quickly, costly, lack support||Lacks stiffness, not designed for high-performance climbing||Not great for smearing, soles lack stickiness of more expensive models|
|Bottom Line||Impressive performance on cracks, edges, and slabs plus an all-day comfortable fit makes these shoes a great choice for trad climbing enthusiasts||A technical climbing powerhouse, perfect for crimpy limestone lines or long granite free climbs||The Skwama are impressive in many realms, combining comfort with a high performance fit||This shoe is a reasonably priced and very comfortable option great for beginner climbers||A great option for beginners, these shoes are most importantly comfortable and easy to use|
|Rating Categories||Maestro Mid Eco||Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||Tarantulace|
|Ease Of Use (5%)|
|Specs||Maestro Mid Eco||Miura VS||La Sportiva Skwama...||Five Ten Kirigami -...||Tarantulace|
|Weight (Per Pair, size 37)||1.17 lb||0.94 lb||1.00 lb||0.99 lb||0.97 lb|
|Fit||Medium-Low Asymetry||High Asymmetry||Asymmetrical||Low Asymmetry||Low Asymmetry|
|Sole Rubber||Vibram XS Edge||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Grip2||Stealth C4||Frixion RS|
Our Analysis and Test Results
With high scores in the comfort, crack climbing, and edging metrics, it's a no-brainer that these shoes are our go-to for all-day comfort.
Right away, we were taken aback by the soft, supple leather uppers on the Scarpa Maestro Mid Eco. These are seriously the softest climbing shoes we've ever worn — with a soft, padded tongue and an unlined leather construction that covers the ankle. The second thing we noticed about the Maestro was the highly adjustable lacing system. Our wide-footed lead tester was pleased to discover that one could loosen and fine-tune the lacing of these shoes right down to the toes. Those with a narrower foot can tighten the laces significantly to get a good fit. Once laced, the Maestro fits snuggly across the top of the foot and wraps securely around the ankle — protecting the ankle bone from getting gobies on wide grovel-fests. The high ankle and medium-stiff build provide the support and stability to get you through long days on your feet.
Be warned that an unlined shoe like this will stretch quite a lot, so it may be a good idea to size them a bit tight and allow yourself time to break them in.
The overall softness and contoured, seamless fit of the Maestro makes them an impressively sensitive shoe. For slab climbing and edging alike — we trusted our feet in these shoes more than we expected. With 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber and Scarpa's Talyn midsole, we were able to not only feel small holds beneath our feet but stand on them confidently.
The midsole is supple enough to conform to the shape of the arch, while still providing enough support to allow for impressive performance on smeary feet and slabby climbing.
A stiffer-soled shoe would perhaps be a better option for serious face climbing, but for most objectives, the medium-stiff midsole on the Maestro is more than sufficient. Because these shoes are designed for all-around trad climbing performance, the Maestro lands in the middle of the road in terms of edging performance and softness.
The soft flexibility that makes them ace for cracks also takes away a bit from their edging ability. That said, there are few all-around trad-specific shoes on the market designed for women, so the Maestro is a step in the right direction.
These shoes are our favorite women's specific crack climbing shoes. We love the protection the high ankle provides for hand cracks, fist cracks, and off-widths. We felt like it could have come up higher to offer more protection, but then the Maestro would lose its low-profile feel which we also appreciated. Some complained that the top of the ankle landed right at the ankle bone, causing pain, but our lead tester did not find this to be an issue. The toe box and upper are so soft, that these shoes fit nicely into finger cracks, but the shoes still provide enough support for the occasional stem or foothold that gives a break from endless jamming.
A month in the Creek could be a lot to handle for the soft, leather uppers of the Maestro. Though we didn't get the chance to truly test their durability, we could foresee some wear and tear occurring on the laces and in the soft leather toe box. Other trad-specific shoes we've worn have a bit more reinforcement on the sides of the toe box, which adds to their longevity.
The roomy, comfort-forward design that sent the Maestro to the top in terms of trad climbing and all-day comfort means that these shoes are not designed for sport climbing or pocket pulling. Their shape is not really aggressive enough to hold its own in comparison to other models in this review on the steeps. That said, their sensitivity and decent edging ability allow them to perform well on the moderate pocket climbing found outside Bishop.
Ease of Use
The adjustability of these shoes was one of the features that struck us the most when we first tested them. The laces make it easy to fine-tune the fit — loosen them up for long moderate days with socks or cinch them down for a burn on your finger crack project.
This range was impressive to us, but, be warned it takes some patience to lace up your climbing shoes when you're used to a new school Velcro strap. On the plus side, once the Maestro is on, you can leave 'em on all day without discomfort.
The major downside to our latest trad Top Pick is that these shoes are some of the most expensive in this review. That said, you get what you pay for and with the Maestro it's a couple hundred dollars' worth of fine Italian craftsmanship and the best materials out there. The Eco version means that you're paying a bit more for "Planet Friendly" leather that has been processed in an environmentally friendly way. So, if you can afford it, the Maestro is a good investment.
The Maestro Mid Eco gets our Top Pick for All-Day Comfort and Crack Climbing due to its impressively comfortable yet still high performing design. The medium-stiff shoe can edge, smear, jam, and smedge — helping you get up most any multi-pitch rock climb out there. The high ankle protects the ankles from scraping and bashing as you grovel up that dreaded off-width pitch, and provides support for that time you decide to forego carrying approach shoes and end up bushwhacking for hours while getting lost on the descent. The features that make these shoes comfortable to walk in and climb off-widths in are also the features that make the Maestro less-than-ideal for your bouldering roof project. Also, their price tag and feature set makes them a bit overkill for the gym. If you've learned anything from this review, it's that it's hard to find one shoe to do it all, but the Maestro Mid Eco comes pretty darn close.
— Jane Jackson