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Trango Lotus Review

Good rope for lead climbing.
Trango Lotus
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Price:  $189 List | $165.38 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Soft catches
Cons:  Kinked up a bit
Manufacturer:   Trango
By Cam McKenzie Ring ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Sep 11, 2017
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63
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#13 of 16
  • Handling - 35% 6
  • Durability - 25% 7
  • Weight - 20% 4
  • Catch - 20% 8

Our Verdict

The Trango Lotus 9.9 mm is a solid "workhorse" rope. If you don't care about the lightest and thinnest models, or in fact prefer a "beefier" rope, this one will do the trick. It handles fairly well (though it did kink up on us a bit), is soft to fall on, and showed only moderate wear after 60 pitches. It did feel a little stretchy, so if you are looking for a line specifically for top-roping, check out the Black Diamond 9.9mm. But the Lotus is still a great line and only $189 with a dry treatment.


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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Pros Soft catchesSkinny for its diameter, durable, great catch, smooth handlingDurable, excellent feel and handle, soft catchesLight, durable, super soft and supple handleGreat handling, durable
Cons Kinked up a bitSlightly stiff, middle mark wears off quicklyPriceyNot durable enough for heavy duty sport climbing, a lot of stretch when secondingHeavy for the diameter, high impact force rating
Bottom Line Good rope for lead climbing.The top-performing do-everything rope that is also a crowd favoriteOne of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability.The perfect light and skinny rope for climbing high above the groundA great rope for advanced sport climbing.
Rating Categories Trango Lotus Mammut Infinity Sterling Evolution Helix Petzl Volta Maxim Pinnacle
Handling (35%)
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6
10
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7
10
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8
10
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8
10
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9
Durability (25%)
10
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7
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8
Weight (20%)
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6
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Catch (20%)
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6
Specs Trango Lotus Mammut Infinity Sterling Evolution... Petzl Volta Maxim Pinnacle
Diameter 9.9 mm 9.5 mm 9.5 mm 9.2 mm 9.5 mm
Weight (g/m) 62.6 g/m 59 g/m 59 g/m 55 g/m 61 g/m
Certified Use Single Single Single Single, Half and Twin Single
UIAA Fall Rating 7 8-9 7 6 7
Impact Force 7.9 kN 8.4 kN 8.9 kN 8.6 kN 10.3 kN
Static Elongation % (in use) 9.5 6.5 7.2 7.5 5
Dynamic Elongation % (first fall) 34 30 31.9 33 26
Sheath Proportion % not available 40 41 42 36
Dry Coating Option Sheath Dry Mammut's Dry Treatment DryXP Duratec Dry Endura Dry 2x treatment
Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option Middle mark Bi-Pattern or Middle Mark Middle Mark and Bi-Color Option Middle Mark Bi-pattern option
Lengths Available 60m, 70m 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m 40m, 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m. DryXP: 60m, 70m, 80m 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m 60m, 70m

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Trango Lotus 9.9 mm weighs 62.6 g/m and comes with a dry treated sheath. It's available in 60 and 70-meter lengths, and only in this jazzy pink color.

Performance Comparison


The Lotus is a great choice for shorter sport climbs where weight isn't too important but you want a beefier line for added durability.
The Lotus is a great choice for shorter sport climbs where weight isn't too important but you want a beefier line for added durability.

Handling


While the rope took knots well and fed easily through our belay devices, it did kink up a lot. While all ropes can get kinky (largely from lowering off widely spaced anchors), this one kinked up on us every time we used it, regardless of anchor configuration. We tried rappelling with it through an ATC to try and "straighten" it out, but it still kinked back up on the next belay.

Catch


We did like taking falls on this rope and gave it high marks in this area. It has a maximum impact force of 7.9 kN and a 34% dynamic elongation, and whippers felt soft and bouncy. However, that bounciness comes at the expense of being spongy when top-roping with it. If you tend to top rope a lot or alternate between leading and top-roping, the seconder might not appreciate the extra stretch if they take a fall.

We had to take in a lot of extra slack when top roping with this rope so that the climber wouldn't hit the ground if they fell at the beginning of the climb.
We had to take in a lot of extra slack when top roping with this rope so that the climber wouldn't hit the ground if they fell at the beginning of the climb.

Weight


This rope weighs 62.6 g/m, which is lighter than some of the other 9.8 and 9.9 ropes in this review. The Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry weighs 64 g/m, but that adds up to only about a 3-ounce difference for a 60 m rope. If you're trying to cut some weight, try the Mammut Infinity or Petzl Arial, which both weigh 58 g/m.

Durability


We put similar wear on each rope, and some looked better than others by the end. This rope held up relatively well, though it did seem to attract dirt and we also almost completely lost the middle marker. There was some sheath fuzz as well, but the larger diameter might help it be more durable in the long run than a 9.5 mm rope. The Maxim Pinnacle, on the other hand, still looked virtually brand new after a similar amount of use.

The pink is pretty when brand new  but it did get dirty quickly  and we had quite a bit of sheath fuzz after 60+ pitches.
The pink is pretty when brand new, but it did get dirty quickly, and we had quite a bit of sheath fuzz after 60+ pitches.

Sport climbing in the Bighorn National Forest  otherwise know as Ten Sleep. We liked falling on this rope  and since we fell a lot it Ten Sleep  it was a good match.
Sport climbing in the Bighorn National Forest, otherwise know as Ten Sleep. We liked falling on this rope, and since we fell a lot it Ten Sleep, it was a good match.

Value


This rope retails for $189, which is a good value for a dry covered rope. We did prefer the handling and durability of the Beal Booster III though, our Best Buy winner, which costs a little bit more than this one.

Conclusion


The Trango Lotus 9.9 mm wasn't any of our testers' favorite rope, but it got the job done and wasn't too expensive. If you're in the market for a dry rope but don't want to spend a fortune on it, the Lotus is a good choice.


Cam McKenzie Ring