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Black Diamond Solution Guide - Women's Review

We love this model for its emphasis on durability and comfort
Black Diamond Solution Guide - Women's
Photo: Backcountry
Editors' Choice Award
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Price:  $100 List | $74.90 at Amazon
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Comfortable, very durable, five gear loops, simple design
Cons:  On the expensive side, a bit bulky, stiff leg loops
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond Equipment
By Jane Jackson ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 11, 2020
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83
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#1 of 11
  • Hanging Comfort - 30% 9
  • Standing Comfort - 25% 8
  • Features - 20% 9
  • Versatility - 15% 7
  • Adjustability - 10% 7

Our Verdict

For anyone that has worn the Black Diamond Solution on many a big wall or full-day trad climb, the Black Diamond Solution Guide is heaven-sent. This harness has the comfort and simplicity of the Solution, with added padding and abrasion resistance to endure that 5.9+ chimney at the top of pitch 15. Though the Solution Guide is a bit less comfortable to hang out in all day at the base of the crag, it has extra padding that allows it to carry more weight comfortably. Its stiff leg loops and waist belt also gave it high marks in terms of hanging comfort. With an extra gear loop in the back (a total of five) and a burly construction, the Solution Guide is ideal for multi-pitch climbs or trad cragging (i.e., your go-to Indian Creek harness). Versatility and adjustability are the Solution Guide's major limiting factors.

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Awards Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award Best Buy Award  Top Pick Award 
Price $74.90 at Amazon
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Pros Comfortable, very durable, five gear loops, simple designLightweight, breathable, comfortable, and highly mobileComfortable, easy to clip rigid gear loops, great value, adjustable leg loop system is light and easySliding waist belt keeps the belay loop in front as you adjust it, comfortable to hang in, durableLightweight, breathable, excellent standing comfort, relatively good hanging comfort
Cons On the expensive side, a bit bulky, stiff leg loopsUncomfortable if leg loops don't fit youWaist belt doesn't have the best ventilationRear haul loop isn't very functional, bulkyTiny belay loop, lacks versatility, expensive
Bottom Line We love this model for its emphasis on durability and comfortA lightweight and thin harness that is comfortable to hang inOne of the best and least expensive all around harnesses in this reviewThis all-around harness is a good beginner model and also good for gyms or programsA great lightweight harness for gym climbing or sport cragging
Rating Categories Black Diamond Solut... Black Diamond Solution Black Diamond Momentum 70Edelrid Jayne II Mammut Alnasca
Hanging Comfort (30%)
9.0
8.0
7.0
7.0
7.0
Standing Comfort (25%)
8.0
9.0
9.0
8.0
9.0
Features (20%)
9.0
9.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
Versatility (15%)
7.0
6.0
8.0
7.0
5.0
Adjustability (10%)
7.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
5.0
Specs Black Diamond Solut... Black Diamond Solution Black Diamond Momentum 70Edelrid Jayne II Mammut Alnasca
Designed for these Disciplines Trad, Multipitch Sport Sport, Trad Sport, Trad, Ice Sport
Weight in ounces (size small) 14.1 12 12.2 15.5 11.04
Gear Loops 5 (4 rigid, 1 flexible) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid) 4 (rigid with flexible attachment points) 4 (2 rigid, 2 flexible)
Haul Loop Yes Yes (not full strength) Yes Yes (very small) No
Adjustable Legs? No No Yes Yes No
Self-locking buckle? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Ice Tool Holder Slot No No No Yes (2) No
Waistbelt Construction Fusion Comfort Technology (3 strands of webbing) Fusion Comfort Technology (3 strands of webbing) Dual Core (2 thin bands of webbing with foam in between) 3D mesh padding Split Webbing Construction with open mesh and foam in between
Special Features Extra padding in waistband Leg loops have same wide construction as waistbelt trakFIT leg adjusters are low profile and lightweight Plastic protector over bottom tie-in point Lightweight design combines rigid and webbing gear loops

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Solution Guide was recently added to the BD fleet, and is marketed as their go-to for trad and multi-pitch climbing. We felt that this was right on point, but were also impressed by the versatility of this harness. We found ourselves wearing the Solution Guide on any outing — from sport climbing to long multi-pitch routes. The addition of a fifth gear loop in the back makes room for personal gear, while the wider waist belt provides comfort at hanging belays or rap stations.

Performance Comparison


Sport climbing in the Gorge in the Solution Guide. These long routes...
Sport climbing in the Gorge in the Solution Guide. These long routes are a great place for this trad-y harness!
Photo: Neil Kauffman

Standing Comfort


Our lead tester was so excited when Black Diamond came out with the Solution Guide - as she had worn the Solution on multi-pitch routes around the world. The Solution Guide is far more comfortable to wear all day, and far more durable for those long, burly trad routes in Yosemite and elsewhere.

We liked how the Solution Guide fits in at the sport crag, while...
We liked how the Solution Guide fits in at the sport crag, while still performing on long routes.

That said, the very durable Super Fabric that makes up the waistband and leg loops of the Solution Guide makes it a tad less comfortable to stand in than its lighter weight counterpart. The fabric and construction make the leg loops and waist stiff, resulting in a loss of mobility when walking around in this harness. These losses in mobility are not enough to take away from the overall performance of this harness in terms of comfort, though. The Solution Guide also totes the signature tapered leg loop design of the other Solution model, which means that there is a lot of material on the back and outside of the leg loops, but not much going on in between the legs; this makes a huge difference in overall comfort.

Hanging Comfort


Black Diamond's Fusion Comfort Technology incorporates three bands of webbing and an EVA foam insert to create a very well-padded, comfortable harness to hang in. The Solution Guide incorporates this technology, plus has a bit of extra padding and stiffness, which allows for a more comfortable hanging experience — ideal for multi-pitch climbing. We climbed many long routes in this harness and never experienced any hot spots or pinching at long, cramped belays.

The tapered leg fits our lead tester well, making this a comfortable...
The tapered leg fits our lead tester well, making this a comfortable harness to hang in.
Photo: Lindsay Hamm

Discipline-Specific Features


There are a few subtle, trade-specific features that separate the Solution Guide from the standard Solution harness. The gear loops are the same pressure molded solid loops, but the first loop on the Guide harness is a bit wider, providing room for more cams and slings. There is also a fifth, lightweight gear loop in the back for extra personal gear (i.e., rappel device, gloves, anchor material). For us, these features were the most notable additions to the Solution Guide, separating it from its lightweight cousin. The abrasion-resistant material and stiffer construction also add durability, which is helpful on burly chimneys and offwidths.

Testing out the durability of the Solution Guide on a classic Valley...
Testing out the durability of the Solution Guide on a classic Valley grovelfest.
Photo: Jane Jackson

Versatility


The added features that make the Solution Guide a great trad climbing harness don't take away from this harness's versatility. The extra-durable leg loops and waistband are certainly not necessary at the sport crag, but they do not inhibit movement. Its weight lands it in the middle of the pack, neither too heavy or exceptionally lightweight. The Solution Guide also packs down small, so it fits in a tight pack for missions where space is limited. It does not have ice-clipper slots, which means this is not the best choice for ice or mixed climbing.

While there is ample room for our few quickdraws, this harness...
While there is ample room for our few quickdraws, this harness really shines when you load it up with cams and slings.
Photo: Lindsay Hamm

Adjustability


The Solution Guide is not a very adjustable harness. That said, there is generous legroom in the leg loops, in comparison to other brands we've tested. We recommend trying this harness on before buying it. If it fits your body, it is very comfortable, but if the proportions don't match up, there isn't much wiggle room with this one. We found the sizing to be the same as other BD models; our lead tester wore a size medium, and it fits perfectly.

Topping out another rad route in the Sierra in the Solution Guide.
Topping out another rad route in the Sierra in the Solution Guide.
Photo: Jane Jackson

Value


While the Solution Guide is significantly more expensive than the standard Black Diamond Solution, we felt that the added cost is worth it if trad climbing is your main activity. The added features and durability that the Solution Guide provides is well worth the extra money in the long run, especially as this was one of our favorite harnesses for trad climbing and multi-pitching. After three months of climbing in this harness on long routes in Yosemite, sport crags on the East Side, and desert towers in Utah, we've hardly noticed any sign of wear, despite groveling through many a squeeze chimney.

Conclusion


WIth larger gear loops, impressive durability, and top-notch hanging comfort, the Black Diamond Solution Guide is our favorite harness for multi-pitch climbing. Though its trade-specific features add a little extra bulk, the Solution Guide still functions well as a cragging harness. Whether you're racking up for a 150-foot hand crack in Indian Creek or prepping for a long day of hanging belays, the Solution Guide has all the features needed for trad climbing endeavors big and small. For ladies who love the Solution, but want a bit more durability, padding, and larger gear loops, this harness is for you! Though it is a bit more expensive than the Solution, it felt reasonable because of these additional features.

Jane Jackson