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Black Diamond Momentum Full-Body Review

This harness is extremely easy to get on and off and is comfortable both on and off the wall.
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Price:  $70 List | $69.95 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  User-friendly, comfortable, lightweight
Cons:  Limited uses
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond
By Adam Paashaus ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Jun 7, 2019
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80
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#3 of 10
  • Hanging Comfort - 40% 9
  • Standing Comfort and Mobility - 20% 9
  • Features - 20% 7
  • Versatility - 20% 6

Our Verdict

Since the Black Diamond Momentum Full Body is designed using the same technologies as the adult versions, it ends up being both super comfortable and one of the lightest tested full body harnesses. The craftsmanship and design are top notch, and the simplicity assures both kids and adults will have no trouble getting it on and adjusted. The foam padding is both soft and breathable, and even though the leg loops don't adjust, they did a great job of keeping our testers comfortable - even for extended periods of hang time.


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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Star Rating
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Pros User-friendly, comfortable, lightweightFully featured, comfortable, secure fitDual adjust waist belt, large gear loops, kids can adjust easily, comfortableDual waist belt buckles, largest gear loops, high qualityEasy to adjust, simple yet functional design, comfortable to hang in
Cons Limited usesNarrower size range, not the best for larger kidsNot the lightestHeaviestSmall gear loops
Bottom Line This harness is extremely easy to get on and off and is comfortable both on and off the wall.This harness seems to have it all, comfort, security, and a plethora of features that can facilitate all types of climbing.This is a comfortable sit harness capable of any type of climbing.A fantastic option for almost any kid looking for a comfortable, and fully capable harness.This simple harness is both comfortable and easy for kids to get on and adjust.
Rating Categories Momentum Full-Body Petzl Ouistiti Mammut Ophir - Kid's Petzl Macchu Edelrid Finn
Hanging Comfort (40%)
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
9
Standing Comfort And Mobility (20%)
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
7
Features (20%)
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
7
Versatility (20%)
10
0
6
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
7
Specs Momentum Full-Body Petzl Ouistiti Mammut Ophir - Kid's Petzl Macchu Edelrid Finn
Designed for these disciplines Top Rope Top Rope All Around / Sport All Around / Sport All Around / Sport
Weight (size medium) (ounces) 12.8 15.4 10.6 12 10.1
Gear Loops 0 2 2 2 2
Adjustable Legs? No Yes Yes Yes Yes
Self-locking buckle? Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes
Waist Belt Construction Full body Full body Sit Sit Sit
Waist Size Ranges (inches) 14-25 23 - 28 in 20 - 26.7 in 21 - 25 in 15.5 - 24 in

Our Analysis and Test Results

While it may not be the most versatile harness, it makes up for it by having a great design that is both comfortable and easy to use.

Performance Comparison


Cruising the upper portion of a St. George trad route  feeling comfortable in the Momentum Full Body.
Cruising the upper portion of a St. George trad route, feeling comfortable in the Momentum Full Body.

Hanging Comfort


The Momentum Full Body is an amazingly comfortable kids harness. BD uses the same strap construction as they do with some of their adult versions, resulting in a harness that disperses the weight of a hanging climber surprisingly well. The leg loops originate from the hips and cradle the legs as opposed to the way a sit harness feels.

Lowering off is comfortable in the Momentum Full Body.
Lowering off is comfortable in the Momentum Full Body.

Standing Comfort and Mobility


Just as with hanging comfort, standing comfort and mobility are also very good. A front buckle keeps the shoulder straps in place and holds the tie in points close together for easy access for tying in. We loved the lightweight padding on the shoulder straps, which wrap around to the similarly padded back panel. The whole thing, both leg loops, and upper harness, move well with a kid's every move while climbing and crawling in the dirt.

Features


The Momentum has a simple yet techy design. A front buckle makes getting it on quick and easy for little kids and helps hold everything in the right place while you're not tied in. A small elasticized padded back strap helps support the lower back when hanging; the way the leg loops originate from the outer hip means no elastic risers are necessary to keep them from sagging.


The pre-threaded speed adjust locking buckles are easy enough for many kids to do themselves.

The Momentum Full Body is easy to use and provides a comfortable hang.
The Momentum Full Body is easy to use and provides a comfortable hang.

Versatility


The Momentum Full Body isn't quite as versatile as some of its competition. Not only will it not fit the littlest of kids but it doesn't have any features that would help in more advanced climbing scenarios like gear loops or a belay loop. If more advanced climbing is in the cards, the Petzl Ouistiti would be a better choice while still offering a comfortable hang.

Big sister tries out the full body Momentum.
Big sister tries out the full body Momentum.

Best Applications


Being super comfortable and supportive to hang in, die-hard kids that are planning on spending a lot of time top roping at the gym or crag will love this harness. With such a simple easy on/off design and smooth sliding buckles, kids can throw it on and get adjusted without help from an adult, other than a check over.

Value


At $70, this harness is a good value. The comfort alone, being much better than many of its competitors, makes it a great deal on a great harness. Parents will love the super easy "step in, pull on like a vest, and buckle the front" design that saves them from having to fiddle with tons of buckles, instead allowing their mini-me to do it themselves.

Conclusion


Black Diamond did a great job designing this harness. Not only does the harness look quality and high tech, but the padded shoulder harness and leg loops do an excellent job of supporting the climber's weight. Any kid who has a brand new passion for climbing often will love this comfortable, sporty harness.

Certainly one of the most comfortable harnesses tested  period.
Certainly one of the most comfortable harnesses tested, period.


Adam Paashaus