Hands-on Gear Review

Black Diamond Neutrino Review

Black Diamond Neutrino Carabiner
Price:  $7 List | $4.99 at Amazon
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Durable, easy to hold, color coded to match BD cams
Cons:  Heavier and smaller than most other light biners
Editors' Rating:   
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Manufacturer Weight:  36g
Gate Closed:  24Kn
Sideways:  7Kn
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond

Our Verdict

A decade ago, the Black Diamond Neutrino was the first really small and light carabiner to gain popularity. It was dramatically lighter and smaller than anything else seen on Yosemite's big walls. I wouldn't do a speed ascent without them. Today, there are dozens of light biners available and the Neutrino has some stiff competition. In general, we prefer a biner like the Black Diamond Oz Carabiner or Wild Country Astro that is lighter and a little easier to handle. That said, many people still swear by the Neutrino. One cool thing is that you can buy them in colors that match the colors of your Black Diamond Camalots and Black Diamond Camalot C3s. That way, when you reach for a cam, you will know right away what you are going for. If you want the absolute smallest biner, check out the Metolius FS Mini or if you want one of the lightest carabiners, check out the CAMP Nano 22 Carabiner.

Product Recall: February 2016
In February of 2016, Black Diamond released a recall of Oz carabiners - 210230 and 381052. If you think you might own any recalled carabiners, read this safety recall notice to determine your next move.


RELATED REVIEW: The Quest for the Best Carabiner Review


Our Analysis and Test Results

Review by:
Chris McNamara

Last Updated:
Sunday
March 7, 2010

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Likes


When the Black Diamond Neutrino came out over a decade ago it was revolutionary. I instantly updated my aid climbing rack and saved many pounds in the process. It is a light and compact biner and is color-coded so that you can match it against your camming devices. When you reach for a Camalot off your climbing harness, it is easier to know which one you are grabbing (admittedly keeping the biners and cams organized takes more effort than any of the OutdoorGearLab gear reviewers are capable of). One nice safety feature is the slightly hooded nose helps protect gate from getting inadvertently rubbed/pushed opened.

Dislikes


For being so small, it is not that light anymore compared to other carabiners. The Black Diamond Oz feels bigger and is easier to handle yet is 25 percent lighter. The Black Diamond Neutrino didn't perform great in our clipping test and because it is so small, it does not do a great job of holding lots of ropes.

Best Application


These work fairly well in just about any application, whether it's big wall climbing, trad climbing, or sport climbing (though we wouldn't recommend them on overhanging routes since they lack a snag-free design). They are especially awesome for alpine rock climbing where you want to be as light as possible for those monster approaches. On a big wall they will dramatically reduce the weight of your rack, especially if you are still using oval biners!

Value


These are priced pretty competitively. At $7 retail, they are about the cheapest biners out there, and ring up at the same price as our Best Buy award winner, the Mad Rock UltraLight Bent Gate.

Other Versions


Black Diamond Neutrino RackPack
Black Diamond Neutrino RackPack
  • Cost - $40
  • Set of 6 color coded biners to match your cams
  • Great way to help stay organized and place gear quickly
Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: November 8, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.3)

100% of 6 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 29%  (2)
4 star: 57%  (4)
3 star: 14%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)

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   Nov 8, 2010 - 06:13pm
mark miller · Climber · Reno
I switched to them when they were first introduced…I lov them..El cap if work comes back at a steady rate I'd like to buy your's. The color coding is brilliant and they are easier then any other biners on the market on your fingers…A consideration for guitar players.

Speaking of colors why doesn't the AIAA or somebody just agree on the same colors of webbing on similar sizes of gear?

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Climber

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   Sep 9, 2010 - 05:23am
bearbreeder · Climber
basic cheap light biner … great for color coated racking …

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

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   Jun 10, 2010 - 09:57pm
Mike. · Climber
This biner comprises the backbone of my rack, whether free or aid climbing. I like the performance I've gotten from them and for that reason have not looked at other lightweight wiregate Ds for some time. I did use some Camp Nanos and thought they were too small, fumbly and somewhat hard to clip--for me, not worth the weight and size savings.

I don't like any wiregate in a PPT paired with another biner, but that is specific to wiregates, not necessarily Neutrinos.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

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   Mar 9, 2010 - 11:38pm
Rankin · Climber · Greensboro, North Carolina
Great biners. I still have ten or twelve on my rack that I bought when they were still the shizz. They're still light, and I like their size and handling. A couple weeks ago, I was reaching high over head to clip a Neutrino coming out a roof, and I actually had trouble dropping the rope in the gate. Only time I've ever noticed a problem clipping a Neutrino. My biner of choice these days is the Mad Rock wire gate…lighter, bigger with a skinny profile (nice for racking) and cheaper.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

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   Mar 9, 2010 - 05:47pm
msiddens · Climber
These are my go to biners. Love these whether it be for racking, alpine draws or on the business end of all my cams. I've tried a number of biners in this weight range but for some reason these it my mitts well.

Get 'em and don't look back.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
goofing off at pine creek

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   Mar 9, 2010 - 03:35pm
jfailing · Climber · Lone Pine
I recently started color-coding these with my C4's. It's kind of a nitpicky thing to do, but it does help with organization and makes it just slightly easier to pick out what color cam you need.

The actual carabiner is nice. Smooth gate action, pretty lightweight, aesthetically pleasing, easy to clip. They're slightly smaller than other carabiners, but not quite as small as the Oz or Metolius Mini - just about the right size to easily clip the rope.

I mean, a biner's a biner, but this is a nice one and great to color-match with your C4's.

I guess my only problem with it is that it's not a key-lock, but it's kind of hard to have a key-lock wiregate, so that is really the only thing detracting from it.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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