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La Sportiva TX Guide Review

This narrow shoe can do it all, from precise climbing on mid-5th class terrain to rugged hikes to long aid climbs
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La Sportiva TX Guide Review (The La Sportiva TX Guide)
The La Sportiva TX Guide
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi
Price:  $179 List
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Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
By Jeff Dobronyi ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Jul 23, 2024
78
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#1 of 11
  • Climbing Ability - 30% 10.0
  • Hiking Comfort - 25% 7.0
  • Weight and Packability - 20% 7.0
  • Support - 15% 8.0
  • Construction Quality - 10% 4.0

Our Verdict

The La Sportiva TX Guide is an all-around climbing and hiking machine, earning our approval as the top approach shoe on the market for users with narrow feet. It features a stiff sole with sticky rubber and a precisely fitting toe box for excellent climbing performance. The cushioned sole and breathable mesh upper provides comfort on every type of terrain, and stiff rubber reinforcements around the forefoot and heel prevent lateral movement of the foot and increase support. This shoe is very lightweight and, unfortunately, is susceptible to sole delamination. The other drawback is that the narrow fit doesn't work for users with the widest feet – if you have average-width or extra-wide feet, we recommend the Scarpa Mescalito Planet. Despite these concerns, the TX Guide is still the best option on the market for users with narrower feet and is one of the best approach shoes ever made.
REASONS TO BUY
Stiff for edging and standing in aiders
Light weight
Excellent climbing ability
Good hiking support
REASONS TO AVOID
Narrow fit is a problem for wide-footed users
Major durability concerns
Editor's Note: We updated this review on July 23, 2024, with new recommendations for alternate choices.

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la sportiva tx guide
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Bottom Line The TX Guide is a great option for those with narrow feet, offering hiking support and excellent climbing precisionPerfect for users with wider-than-average feet, these shoes can do it all, from 5th-class climbing to long approaches to aid climbing. They aren't cheap, but they are built to lastSpecializing in heavy loads and big wall climbing, this model is also a well-rounded favoriteOur favorite shoes for carrying over a route while multipitch climbingA solid choice for an all-around approach shoe that costs less than the competition, while outperforming much of it
Rating Categories La Sportiva TX Guide Scarpa Mescalito Pl... La Sportiva TX4 La Sportiva TX2 Evo Scarpa Crux
Climbing Ability (30%)
10.0
9.0
7.0
9.0
8.0
Hiking Comfort (25%)
7.0
8.0
9.0
6.0
6.0
Weight and Packability (20%)
7.0
4.0
5.0
9.0
6.0
Support (15%)
8.0
10.0
9.0
5.0
7.0
Construction Quality (10%)
4.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
8.0
Specs La Sportiva TX Guide Scarpa Mescalito Pl... La Sportiva TX4 La Sportiva TX2 Evo Scarpa Crux
Outsole Vibram Megagrip Vibram Megagrip LiteBase Vibram Megagrip with Trail Bite heel Vibram Idrogrip Vibram Megagrip
Upper Material Synthetic TPU, PU Recycled Pespair Polyester Leather Recycled knit, PU toe & heel Leather
Weight (per pair) 29.8 oz (size 13) 33 oz (size 13) 26.2 oz (size 9.5) 26.4 oz (size 13) 27.2 oz (size 9.5)
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Mid Height Available No No Yes No No
Midsole Dual-density compressed EVA, TPU Torsion Shank EVA Traverse injection MEMlex Traverse lite injection MEMlex with co-molded TPU shank EVA

Our Analysis and Test Results

The TX Guide is an incredibly versatile climbing shoe, excelling in nearly every metric of our testing process. But for users with wide feet, we recommend looking elsewhere.

Performance Comparison


la sportiva tx guide - the la sportiva tx guide is most at home on steep rock climbs where...
The La Sportiva TX Guide is most at home on steep rock climbs where other approach shoes fall short, allowing guides and recreationists the chance to leave their climbing shoes at home.
Credit: Sam Willits

Climbing Ability


The TX Guide climbs better than most approach shoes on the market. Our testers felt comfortable leading mid-5th class terrain while wearing these shoes, which is a testament to their secure feeling on the rock. They have a stiff platform and sticky Vibram MegaGrip rubber, providing secure footing on edges, smears, and cracks alike.


The sole under the forefoot includes more flat rubber in contact with the rock (positive space) than the space between the lugs (negative space), providing lots of surface area for secure smearing. The toe box has a narrow and precise fit, allowing the direct transfer of force from the foot to the shoe's “climbing zone”, and our testers were impressed by how the TX Guide can hold an edge on the moderately small (but still obvious) holds that mid-5th class climbing often involves. The narrow toe box and rubberized toe cap provide good security during foot jams, and the shoe can easily fit into most hand-sized cracks.

la sportiva tx guide - more technical shoes feature sticky rubber and a plenty of surface...
More technical shoes feature sticky rubber and a plenty of surface area in contact with the rock, paired with a stiff sole for excellent smearing and edging.
Credit: Sam Willits

Mountain Guides often wear approach shoes while leading their guests up easier 5th-class climbs to reduce the amount of time they spend in rock climbing shoes. The TX Guide allows professionals and recreationists alike the opportunity to leave the climbing shoes at home more often and spend the day in comfortable approach shoes that can handle moderate rock climbs with a wide margin of security. For that very reason, this product has emerged as a favorite shoe of professional mountain guides all over the world.

la sportiva tx guide - we are impressed by the climbing ability of the tx guide, which our...
We are impressed by the climbing ability of the TX Guide, which our Mountain Guide testers trust to safely carry them to the top of low to mid-5th class rock climbs.
Credit: Sam Willits

Hiking Comfort


The TX Guide is generally comfortable for hiking and walking. It has a moderately stiff last and lots of cushioning in the midsole, meaning you won't feel every pebble and root on the trail. It is light and nimble, and won't weigh you down or feel clunky after a long day. The mesh upper is thin and breathable, allowing sweat and heat to escape on long, hot walks. And, they fit comfortably right out of the box without requiring a break-in period.


These shoes are on the narrow side, and after logging plenty of miles, our testers noticed that the shoe can create some pressure on the pinky toe, especially on the descent. A rubberized toe cap extends around the entire forefoot above the sole, extending past the pinky toe and toward the arch, meaning the mesh upper has no ability to stretch outward to make more room for the toes on the descent. This benefits durability but slightly diminishes hiking comfort. This is a bigger problem for users with wide feet, and the shoe is still generally very comfortable for hiking.

la sportiva tx guide - the tx guide, left, has a low-volume forefoot compared to a more...
The TX Guide, left, has a low-volume forefoot compared to a more average-width approach shoe, right. This can be problematic for users with wide feet.
Credit: Sam Willits

Weight & Packability


These shoes strike the perfect balance between weight and performance. They are light enough to disappear into a pack while multi-pitch climbing but still climb and hike well. Generally, the highest-performing shoes also weigh the most, but the TX Guide sets a new paradigm for what is possible in a lightweight pair.


There are lighter approach shoes on the market, but none that perform as well across the board in such a lightweight profile. There aren't any special elastic straps to keep them in a tight package on your harness, but they do have clip-in loops on each heel, so you can attach them to your harness for a comfortable walk-off.

la sportiva tx guide - the tx guide, left, doesn't pack as small as the most compact...
The TX Guide, left, doesn't pack as small as the most compact approach shoes on the market, but it still packs relatively small and doesn't weigh all that much.
Credit: Sam Willits

Support


The TX Guide is a very stiff shoe, especially in the arch. This makes standing in aiders and on belay ledges more comfortable. It also accommodates crampons better than lighter models for the occasional snowfield crossing or summer glacier approach.


The shoes have rubber toe caps that extend around the entire forefoot and even stiffer heel cups that provide a secure fit to the rear. The mesh upper is thin and flexible, but a tight lace pattern locks the foot into place against the toe cap and heel cup. The result is a remarkably supportive shoe that prevents all sliding and rolling of the foot across the insole. The sole is stiff and supports the foot completely when the user is standing in aiders.

la sportiva tx guide - the tx guide offers plenty of support, as we could barely feel the...
The TX Guide offers plenty of support, as we could barely feel the pressure when standing in a narrow sling.
Credit: Sam Willits

Construction Quality


We were concerned with the durability of the TX Guide during our testing period, and unfortunately, considerable problems arose over the next year of regular use. After only about five days in these shoes, we noticed that the midsole was delaminating from the toe box in the same place on both shoes. To make sure this wasn't a fluke, we inquired with members of the American Mountain Guides Association and received many reports of similar issues, including sole delamination around the toe and heel.


While the mesh upper and foam midsole can take a beating, this delamination issue is problematic. These shoes aren't cheap, and a delaminated sole in the middle of a multi-day trip or multi-pitch rock climb can be a serious safety concern. The upshot is that many of the guides we consulted received good customer service while exchanging problematic pairs for replacement. Others noted that a preventative treatment of shoe glue or rubber cement around the junctions between the sole, midsole, and toe box prevented delamination early and fixed the problem when it occurred.

la sportiva tx guide - we found bilateral delamination in the midsole underneath the big...
We found bilateral delamination in the midsole underneath the big toe area after only a handful of days into our testing period.
Credit: Jeff Dobronyi

Many users with narrow feet say that this durability issue isn't enough to deter them since the TX Guide provides such excellent climbing ability. We tend to agree with this sentiment, much to our chagrin. However, more durable options are still available in our lineup, and particularly good ones for folks with medium-to-wide feet.

Should You Buy The La Sportiva TX Guide?


The TX Guide climbs almost as well as a climbing shoe, offers stiff support for long days on your feet or standing in aiders, and is relatively comfortable while hiking. It isn't cheap, but it isn't the most expensive shoe on the market, either. The major downside is the cost of this shoe in light of some serious durability issues. But if you are going to own one approach shoe for all applications, this is the best choice out there, especially if you have narrow feet.

la sportiva tx guide - the la sportiva tx guide is at home on technical terrain and on the...
The La Sportiva TX Guide is at home on technical terrain and on the feet of professional mountain guides around the world.
Credit: Sam Willits

What Other Approach Shoes Should You Consider?


We recommend the TX Guide to climbers with narrow feet. But if you have an average width or even a wide foot, the Scarpa Mescalito Planet is the best choice. That shoe climbs, hikes, and scrambles as well as the TX Guide, just with a wider fit and better construction quality. If you are looking for a lightweight approach shoe to carry over a multi-pitch route without adding much bulk to your harness, check out the La Sportiva TX2 Evo. If you find yourself doing long, rugged approaches to alpine climbs, the La Sportiva TX4 is a more comfortable option. And if you want a low-tech approach shoe for casual cragging approaches, scrambling, and mountain running, the Arc'teryx Vertex Alpine is a great running-approach shoe hybrid. For users on a budget, the Scarpa Crux performs almost as well for slightly less money.

Jeff Dobronyi