Read the Review
Read the Review
Read the Review
Read the Review
Read the Review
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Best Buy Award Top Pick Award Top Pick Award 
Price $44.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$99.09 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
$29.95 at REI
Compare at 2 sellers
$49.95 at REI
Compare at 2 sellers
$99.95 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
Overall Score Sort Icon
58
76
73
73
73
Star Rating
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Pros Passive locking provides extra security and takes pressure off your belay handEasy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mmGreat for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good valueThree belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevityCompact, safe and ergonomic way to pay out slack, a bit less expensive than GriGri
Cons Doesn't feed smoothly - you have to keep a lot of pressure on your thumb, limited use and functionalityA bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniquesHeavier than the ReversoSlightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay techniqueMethod of clipping to harness is counter-intuitive, unlocking device under tension takes some practice, easy to lower too quickly
Bottom Line A great option for gyms to place on their toprope setups and for single pitch craggers looking for a cheaper optionBy far the most popular belay device in the world is also one of the very bestSimple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch climbsA Top Pick because of its unique combination of three different belay modes in one small and convenient deviceWith a little practice this device quickly became one we enjoy using, with few, if any, downsides
Rating Categories Black Diamond ATC Pilot Petzl GriGri Black Diamond ATC Guide Edelrid Giga Jul Trango Vergo
Catch And Bite (30%)
7
9
5
8
8
Lowering And Rappelling (30%)
7
7
9
8
7
Feeding Slack (20%)
4
7
9
7
8
Weight And Bulk (10%)
8
5
8
7
5
Auto Block (10%)
0
9
5
4
7
Specs Black Diamond ATC... Petzl GriGri Black Diamond ATC... Edelrid Giga Jul Trango Vergo
Style Passive assisted braking Active assisted braking Auto-block tube Passive assisted braking Passive assisted braking
Recommended Rope Diameter 8.7 mm - 10.5 mm 8.5 mm - 11 mm 7.7 mm - 11 mm 7.8 mm - 10.0 mm 8.9 mm - 10.7 mm
Weight (oz) 3.2 oz. 6.3 oz. 2.8 oz. 4.3 oz. 7.1 oz.
Double Rope Rap? No No Yes Yes No
Belay off anchor? No Yes Yes Yes Yes
Assisted Braking? Yes, passive Yes, active No Yes, passive Yes, passive
Warranty 1 year 3 year 1 year 1 year 1 year
Expand to show full specification table  |  Hide details