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Hands-on Gear Review

Sportiva Miura VS Review

La Sportiva Miura VS
Price:   $175 List | $175.00 at Backcountry
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Pros:  Excellent edging, Stiff, Excellent in pockets
Cons:  Uncomfortable, Not the most sensitive
Editors' Rating:     
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Manufacturer:   La Sportiva

Our Verdict

The Miura VS belongs in the world of very hard climbing, where it can use its diamond hard edges and almost absurdly asymmetric shape to power down on invisible features. For it to perform in this capacity, it must be sized tightly, and by tight we mean painfully. When really pushing the grades, sometimes you have to sacrifice comfort. To wear these shoes for more than a pitch or two we'd have to cut off a few toes. It also has to be right for your foot, try these puppies on before you buy.

Once they've worn in, or you've completely lost sensation in your feet, these things will do a lot of heavy lifting for you. The P3 soles absorb most of the pressure of tip-toes on the rock, and still manage to smear reasonably well. The VS goes on very easily for a tight fitting shoe, and the velcro allows for easy adjustment. The velcro gets in the way sometimes when toe hooking, and the Miura VS lacks the rubber patch at the toe that makes the Solution so effective at the technique.


RELATED REVIEW: The Best Men's Rock Climbing Shoes

select up to 5 products
Score Product Price Style Upper Lining
86
$195
Editors' Choice Award
lace Suede Leather/MIcro fiber none
86
$185
Top Pick Award
lace Leather/Lorica Pacific (forefoot and back)
86
$185
velcro Leather/Synthetic Leather Unlined
80
$185
Top Pick Award
lace Leather Sentex/PU Foam
76
$165
lace Leather dentex
76
$175
velcro Cowdura⢠Synthetic synthetic
76
$165
velcro leather synthetic
74
$180
velcro Leather/Lorica HF
74
$130
velcro Non-stretch Synthratek synthetic upper microfiber leather cotton
74
$175
velcro Leather synthetic
74
$160
velcro synthetic Unlined
72
$145
lace Leather none
72
$175
lace Synthetic (Cowdura) none
72
$83
Best Buy Award
velcro Leather / Synflex none
70
$125
slipper leather none
70
$175
velcro MicroFiber (Synthetic)
66
$139
Lace 1.8mm Suede/Micro Suede none
66
$90
velcro Leather/ Synthetic Leather synthetic (tongue and arch only)
66
$180
velcro Suede/Micro Suede none
62
$150
velcro Leather synthetic
58
$89
velcro Elastic Synthratek synthetic upper nylon

Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results

Review by:
Thomas Greene
Review Editor
OutdoorGearLab

Last Updated:
Saturday
September 20, 2014

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La Sportiva either ran out of name ideas or wanted to ensure decent sales when they dubbed this shoe with the Miura moniker. Though it shares some key design features with the original Miura, the Miura VS is its own shoe, meant to live in a very steep world inhabited by few others.

Performance Comparison


Climbing in the specialized La Sportiva Miura VS.
Climbing in the specialized La Sportiva Miura VS.

Edging


The Miura VS is a function specific shoe and does a few things, like edging, incredibly well. The P3 midsole lets you power down through your toes on the tiniest of features. It edges well on all sides of the toe, enabling you to turn your hips into the wall and significantly increase your reach. The down turned toe sucks the foot into the rock, and works well even when the climber is stretched out. Few shoes even come close to the edging ability of the VS, leaving it in a category largely by itself.

Crack Climbing


You'll probably get away with climbing a few cracks in this shoe, but it will probably hurt. This shoe is not designed or intended for use in cracks, and would likely be worse than most.

The Evolv Shaman is a similar concept to the Miura VS  but much more comfortable.
The Evolv Shaman is a similar concept to the Miura VS, but much more comfortable.

Pockets


This shoe is meant to do a couple things, and pockets are one of them. The steeper the better. The MIura VS hooks into pockets with an ease that belies the discomfort of wearing them. Only the La Sportiva Futura rivals this shoe on pockets.

Sensitivity


You won't paste your toes on Braille up the rock in this shoe. You will stand on invisible features and crank. The Miura VS makes up for feeling a little like a brick on your foot by being an edging machine. There are times when you'll miss being able to feel the rock, but this is still an incredibly adept climbing shoe.

Comfort


For these shoes to really work you need to size them tight, which means painfully. This shoe is meant to be used and then taken of, while you sit on a crash pad wondering how you ever got them on in the first place.
The flatter fit of the original Miura (left) makes them a better all-arounder and generally more comfortable than the Miura VS (right).
The flatter fit of the original Miura (left) makes them a better all-arounder and generally more comfortable than the Miura VS (right).

Best Applications


The Miura VS is a super high-end sport, and bouldering shoe, and you should use it thusly. It is far from a single shoe to climb everything in, and if you buy it, size it tight to let it perform at its highest level.

Value


This shoe does as advertised, and climbs hard. Its value is in how you use it. If you want a shoe that will let you climb at your limit, then the Miura VS is a great shoe for you. It is durable, but it loses some of that phenomenal edging ability once it's worn in.

Conclusion


Though the Miura VS is a great shoe, we'd look at the Solution, Futura or Shaman for performance and comfort if we were going to buy a shoe specifically for hard sport or bouldering. Like all things climbing, and in particular things that go on your feet, it has to work for you. In the pursuit for the perfect-for-you-fit, this pair is worthy of consideration.

Other Versions


La Sportiva Miura VS
La Sportiva Miura VS - Women's
  • Women's Version of this shoe
  • Stiffer forefoot for better edging
  • $175

La Sportiva Miura and La Sportiva Miura - Women's
  • Editors' Choice Award Winner!
  • Time tested shoe design
  • Sensitive yet powerful edge
  • Women's version features a low cut ankle and lower volume foot
  • $160

La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoe
La Sportiva TC Pro
  • Top Pick Award Winner!
  • Based on a similar shape to the Miura
  • Geared towards trad routes and all day climbing
  • Comfortable yet super high performance
  • $180
Thomas Greene

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 26, 2017
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.7)

67% of 3 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (2)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 25%  (1)
Sort 3 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Apr 26, 2017 - 08:22am
Gandar · Climber · PA
Great Shoe. I own, or have owned, many other La Sportiva shoes, and this is my favorite (I own the Katana, Katana lace, Muria, Testarossa, and have demo-ed most other La Sportiva, Scarpa, 5.10, evolv shoes in this catagory)! The review is correct, in that this is by far the best edging shoe you can find. Its not quite cheating, but close. I have to disagree with some aspects of the review.
You do not have to size it super tight for it to perform. I wear these for multipitch trad all the time, and they work great. When you are sketched out above manky gear I want something that I trust, and these are what I trust.
They are very comfortable (for climbing shoes) for my feet. Other shoes they recommend because they are more comfortable do not feet my feet and are much worse. These guys hug my feet with no dead spots. Granted, this is one shoe where it either fits you, or it doesn't. Some people don't like them for this reason. Most people who don't like the Murias for comfort wear the solutions. The solutions feel terrible when I try them on.
I think they edge better and are similiar in comfort the the non VS Murias. The P3 downturn helps a lot even on vertical and slightly slabby terrain.
I do agree with some of the cons, but they are no deal breakers for me. They do take two weeks to break in (climbing 2 to 3 days a week). I would not recommend them for crack climbing. And I definitely wouldn't recommend them if they don't fit your feet (but thats a generic comment for all climbing shoes).

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 28, 2015 - 04:49pm
Many of the new La Sportiva velcro products are defective. The velcro tears or its clasp breaks off. Watch out, La Sportiva customer service refuses to honor their warranty for defective products.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   Oct 11, 2014 - 04:58pm
Jesus · Climber · Sydney
Love em!
Excellent edging, great on pockets, smearing is very cool with these shoes. They are a work horse :) I feel confidant with dynamic movements or coming off with these shoes, knowing that the grip, pocket, smearing on these shoes will do the job.
As mentioned they can be a little uncomfortable after long use, but thats understandable for a climbing shoe :) The leather seems to have a rough surface on the inside (above the toes) compared to the Miura and Katana Lace, which could be the difference in comfort.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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