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Hands-on Gear Review
Sportiva Miura VS Review
Cons: Uncomfortable, Not the most sensitive
The Miura VS belongs in the world of very hard climbing, where it can use its diamond hard edges and almost absurdly asymmetric shape to power down on invisible features. For it to perform in this capacity, it must be sized tightly, and by tight we mean painfully. When really pushing the grades, sometimes you have to sacrifice comfort. To wear these shoes for more than a pitch or two we'd have to cut off a few toes. It also has to be right for your foot, try these puppies on before you buy.
Once they've worn in, or you've completely lost sensation in your feet, these things will do a lot of heavy lifting for you. The P3 soles absorb most of the pressure of tip-toes on the rock, and still manage to smear reasonably well. The VS goes on very easily for a tight fitting shoe, and the velcro allows for easy adjustment. The velcro gets in the way sometimes when toe hooking, and the Miura VS lacks the rubber patch at the toe that makes the Solution so effective at the technique.
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Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
La Sportiva either ran out of name ideas or wanted to ensure decent sales when they dubbed this shoe with the Miura moniker. Though it shares some key design features with the original Miura, the Miura VS is its own shoe, meant to live in a very steep world inhabited by few others.
The Miura VS is a function specific shoe and does a few things, like edging, incredibly well. The P3 midsole lets you power down through your toes on the tiniest of features. It edges well on all sides of the toe, enabling you to turn your hips into the wall and significantly increase your reach. The down turned toe sucks the foot into the rock, and works well even when the climber is stretched out. Few shoes even come close to the edging ability of the VS, leaving it in a category largely by itself.
You'll probably get away with climbing a few cracks in this shoe, but it will probably hurt. This shoe is not designed or intended for use in cracks, and would likely be worse than most.
This shoe is meant to do a couple things, and pockets are one of them. The steeper the better. The MIura VS hooks into pockets with an ease that belies the discomfort of wearing them. Only the La Sportiva Futura rivals this shoe on pockets.
You won't paste your toes on Braille up the rock in this shoe. You will stand on invisible features and crank. The Miura VS makes up for feeling a little like a brick on your foot by being an edging machine. There are times when you'll miss being able to feel the rock, but this is still an incredibly adept climbing shoe.
For these shoes to really work you need to size them tight, which means painfully. This shoe is meant to be used and then taken of, while you sit on a crash pad wondering how you ever got them on in the first place.
The Miura VS is a super high-end sport, and bouldering shoe, and you should use it thusly. It is far from a single shoe to climb everything in, and if you buy it, size it tight to let it perform at its highest level.
This shoe does as advertised, and climbs hard. Its value is in how you use it. If you want a shoe that will let you climb at your limit, then the Miura VS is a great shoe for you. It is durable, but it loses some of that phenomenal edging ability once it's worn in.
Though the Miura VS is a great shoe, we'd look at the Solution, Futura or Shaman for performance and comfort if we were going to buy a shoe specifically for hard sport or bouldering. Like all things climbing, and in particular things that go on your feet, it has to work for you. In the pursuit for the perfect-for-you-fit, this pair is worthy of consideration.
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— Thomas Greene
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