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The Best Rock Climbing Rack and Gear List

Tuesday January 3, 2012 1:09pm
 
Below is our choice for Ultimate Rock Climbing Rack. We feel this is the most versatile rack that will perform the best in the most number of locations. That said, every climbing area is different and we would tweak this rack a little here and there. You can see variations on this rack here on SuperTopo.com:

Best High Sierra Climbing Rack
Best Yosemite Climbing Rack
Best Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Rack

We list top choice first followed sometimes by the Best Buy (BB) choice> For example, the La Sportiva TC Pro is our top Yosemite shoe choice but costs $170. The Mad Rock Flash is our Best Buy winner at only $75 and will get the job done.

This rack has almost everything you may need for a multi-pitch trad climb. Depending on the climb you are going to do and your experience you can pick and choose what you need. Climbing Rack For a typical rack for a big wall climb, check out a typical
Justin Lawrence on the Pitch 3 arete.
Justin Lawrence on the Pitch 3 arete.
Credit: Marshall Minobe

Climbing Gear
Nuts: Cams: Ropes: 1 60m x 9.5mm Mammut Infinity or Maxim Equinox (BB) and one 60m x 8mm for double rope rappels
Quickdraws: 7 Wild Country Helium Quickdraw or Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw (BB) or CAMP Nano 23 Quickdraw to go ultralight
Carabiners: 20 extra Wild Country Helium or Mad Rock Ultra-Light Straight (BB) or CAMP Nano 23 to go ultralight
Locking Carabiners: 3 Petzl Attache 3D or Black Diamond Rocklock (BB)
Slings: 10 Mammut Contact Dyneema and a few 9/16" runners in case you need to leave them at rappels
Cordelette: Mammut Pro Cord
Harness: Black Diamond Chaos or Black Diamond Momentum
Belay Device: Petzl Reverso 3
Climbing Shoes: La Sportiva TC Pro or Mad Rock Flash (BB)
Helmet: Petzl Meteor III helmet or Petzl Elios
Metolius Adjustable Gear Sling
Nut Tool: Wild Country Pro Key

Non Climbing Gear
Approach Shoes: La Sportiva Ganda or Five Ten Guide Tennie (BB)
Headlamp: Petzl Tikka XP 2
Rain Jacket: Marmot PreCip
Poles: Black Diamond Trail Compact (optional)
Climbing Pack: Black Diamond Bullet or REI Flash 18 (BB)

Car Camping Gear
Tent: Black Diamond Mesa or REI Half Dome 2 (BB)
Synthetic Sleeping Bag: Mountain Hardwear Ultralamina 15 or Mountain Hardwear Pinole 20 (BB)
Sleeping Pad: Therm-A-Rest ProLite Plus or Therm-A-Rest Z Lite (BB)
Stove: MSR Whisperlite (BB)

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Chris McNamara
About the Author
Climbing Magazine once computed that three percent of Chris McNamara’s life on earth has been spent on the face of El Capitan—an accomplishment that has left friends and family pondering Chris’ sanity. He’s climbed El Capitan over 70 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998 Chris did the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that begs the question, “Why?” Outside Magazine has called Chris one of “the world’s finest aid climbers.” He’s the winner of the 1999 Bates Award from the American Alpine Club and founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit group that has replaced over 5000 dangerous anchor bolts. He is a graduate of UC Berkeley and serves on the board of the ASCA, and Rowell Legacy Committee. He has a rarely updated Chris McNamara.com, maintains BASE jumping movies.com, and also runs a Lake Tahoe home rental business.

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