Black Diamond Speed 40 Review |
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Overall avg rating 3.0 of 5 based on 4 reviews. Most recent review: July 3, 2012
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Street Price:
Varies from $128 - $160 | Compare prices at 8 resellers
Pros: Beefy padding, light for how comfortable it is, stream lined, removable top and waist
Cons: Shoulders a little unfortable with repetitive climbing movements
Best Uses: Climbing, overnight back packing, light weight backcountry travel
Recommendations: 50% of reviewers (1/2) recommend this product
Manufacturer:
Black Diamond
| Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ July 3, 2012 |
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Overview
This climbing pack has a simple light design with a relatively comfortable suspension. It is not the absolute lightest pack, but is pretty light for how comfortable it is with 20-30 pounds. If you jam it full of heavy stuff, it is not has comfy. When I recently used it on a one-day ascent of Mt. Watkins in Yosemite, we took the lid off to make it even lighter. My only complaint was that the straps cut into my shoulders while jumaring if I did not have the chest strap adjusted just right. However, that is something to be expected from most packs with beefy padding: they are more comfortable to carry but not as comfortable to climb with. Overall, this is a great balance of comfort and weight. However, since I am obsessed on weight, I might also look for a pack that is a little lighter with less padding. The material was nice and durable: you don't have to baby this lightweight pack. I liked the beefy plastic coated clip in point at the top of the suspension. This made it fast to hang the pack on the anchor and inspired confidence. All the straps are pretty steam-lined so they don't get hung up on stuff. For non climbing applications, I would consider the Vapor Trail because it has 50% more volume and is lighter (but it is not as durable and appropriate for climbing).
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Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: July 3, 2012
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spidey · Climber · Berkeley CA
I had a Dana Bomb pack for about 10 years, and when it was time to retire it, I wanted to go a bit lighter but keep the comfort. I like top loading packs as there are no zippers to fail, and i prefer one buckle over two. I feel like a good alpine pack should weigh close to 3 pounds, maybe 3.5 at the most. The ones I've tried that are close to 2 lbs just don't seem to carry well with the 30-40 lb loads that are often necessary on climbing trips.
I tried the Speed 30/40 after a friend recommended his and after reading the review here. I typically am a big fan of Black Diamond gear, generally the quality is superb and I really wanted to like the Speed as it is very light and streamlined, even elegant. But when I loaded it up with about 25 lbs, I found it very uncomfortable, mainly because even the M/L size seemed way too short and I couldn't get the weight off my shoulders. I also tried the Mountain Hardwear Trad, but didn't like the shoulder straps and found it to be kind of gimmicky - like they invented a bunch of complicated features to solve non-existent problems with current pack designs. I tried some Osprey packs but they just didn't fit right or seemed too fidgety, too many bells and whistles and straps and crap hanging off them.
I ended up buying the REI Pinnacle 40 (or 45?) which is a very solid pack and a great deal for $100 (list price!) and was a lot more comfortable, well designed, nice features, (ice tool pick pockets, size zipper, waistbelt pocket for bars/gu on one side and a gear loop on the other) but a bit heavier than the Speed 40. I am a big fan of going light, but with alpine climbing packs comfort trumps a few ounces of weight savings anytime - especially when I'm going to use it for full 24 hour days and 3 day trips with 40+ pounds of climbing and camping gear. Overall the fit was great and it performed well on a 3 day trip to do the Palisades Traverse from Thunderbolt to Sill. My partner brought his Speed 30, and my pack was much more comfortable even with more weight in it.
A few months later I got the BD Sphynx 42, and I have to say that it is a better technical alpine pack than the REI Pinnacle (which is quite a good pack), and WAY WAY WAY better than the Speed 30/40. The fabric is burly, the comfort is superb, suspension is great, it has all the features you need, and nothing you don't. I love that the lid is atached (not floating) and there is only one big buckle to close instead of 2 small ones. Much more user-friendly design.
The top opening is huge, making the pack seem like it holds more than others with the same stated volume. The pickpockets and crampon straps are well designed, the lid pocket is huge and functional, water bladder system works well, it looks good and carries well. It has attachment points for a helmet bungee carrier on top, and removeable crampon straps. It does not have the side zipper but so far I haven't missed it - haven't done any multiday trips with it yet though. I am thinking of adding gear loops to the waistbelt, but it does come with a second unpadded waistbelt which you can use with a harness, so that may be unnecessary. Looks like the Sphynx has been discontinued (replaced by the Epic 45, which is heavier and has a huge extension collar as well as gear loops) and the newer BD Speed 40 pack is a bit heavier, has gear loops, and a cheesy bungee ice axe attachment system rather than the pickpockets and burly removeable velcro strap. I'm glad I got the Sphynx while it was still available!
Overall after looking at all the alpine climbing packs I could find last fall, the Sphinx was my favorite (Editor's Choice!) and the REI Pinnacle gets best value. The Mammut Trion series look very nice too though, would love to see reviews of those - wasn't able to find them in stores at the time. For me the Sphynx was the perfect replacement for my retired Dana Bomb pack - lighter, just as comfortable, and more climbing specific in its design. Also, another partner has the BD Predator 50 which is a very similar pack design, with a crampon pouch instead of straps, and he loves it.
Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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bmacd · Climber · 100% Canadian
I can vouch for other BD models similar to this, Me and Jimmy Brennan have the BD Sphinx 32 which is very similar to the Speed, but beefier. Carries a heavy load extremely well. Of particular note on the Sphinx 32 is the enormous zippered top lid pocket. Hipbelt removal is fast and simple. 3 point haul.
Bomber old school style packs.
The BD predator 50 in this series looks awesome too
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My first 40L pack. It gets the job done and holds up to 30lbs of gear when stuffed. Black Diamond is a pretty sweet brand and i trust in their products, and best of all i found the pack for a cheap price online.
Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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 Black Diamond Speed 40 Backpack Credit: Black Diamond Equipment.com
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