Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: $13 | Compare prices at 4 resellers
Cons: No keylock gate, does not hold many slings and ropes
Best Uses: Trad climbing, big wall climbing, sport climbing
The Superfly Screwlock is the lightest locking biner on the market. Other than its limitations (listed below) it excels at most applications at a fraction of the weight of most locking biners. Its main competition is the Wild Country Neon, which is about the same weight but comes with the key-lock design that leads to fewer gate snags. The Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Screw also scored higher than the Trango and costs less ($8 vs. $12). For the ultimate lightweight belay carabiner, check out the Petzl Attached 3D.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
This is one of the lightest carabiners out there. It is small but still big enough to use at the anchor or with a belay device. It excels on alpine climbs where every ounce counts.
There are no major dislikes other than we wish it had a key-lock gate. All the other low scores are due to it just being a small carabiner (it doesn't hold many knots, is not great for belaying a second, etc). We feel comfortable using it just about anywhere because we like lightweight biners so much. But if saving weight is not the most important thing to you, there are a lot of other great carabiners available.
Any time you are obsessed with weight, as with alpine rock climbing, this biner excels. I use it for nearly every locking biner application except for the following, where I use a pear-shaped biner like the Petzl Attache:
This is at the high end of lightweight carabiners for cost. It is the same price as the Wild Country Neon and much more expensive than the Mad Rock.
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: January 19, 2010
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