How We Test - Ice Axe

We made three trips to test ice axes side-by-side in each category. On one trip Ian self-arrested over 40 times and on another we moved a nearly car-sized volume of snow digging and comparing adzes. As a guide, Ian teaches people to self arrest and dig snow anchors on a weekly basis and says, "I have had a lot of time to sit and compare my own uses while viewing hundreds other people's experiences." Ian is an AMGA certified Rock and Alpine guide and has been using ice axes since before he could drive. His group of testers spoke with dozens of friends and climbing shop employees. They also gathered a group of seven alpine guides for a roundtable discussion about what they liked and didn't like, as well as personal stories and insights. The weights of the axes were calculated on our own scales.