SMC Capra Review

Likes
The Capra has a large, rounded head that makes it comfortable to hold and it is barely behind the Black Diamond Raven family in comfort. The rounded head, when in self belay position, "spun around" and made self-arresting fast and easy. The pick shape, along with that of the Raven series and the REI Yeti, makes it the smoothest to self-arrest. The hole in the middle of the head and the one in the adze work fairly well in snow anchor mode as well as in standing ice axe belays. Clipping the hole in the head is a little challenging. The adze performs about as well as a Raven or a Petzl Snow Walker and not quite as well as a CAMP Neve.

Dislikes
The pick penetrates firmer ice about average; it is not a great choice on steeper snow and ice climbs. It is not quite as good as a Petzl Snow Walker and is about the same as a Raven or a Raven Pro. Another slight problem came during a cravasse rescue where the rounded head made it slightly more difficult to clip or girth hitch a sling to, but it was still easier than a CAMP Neve.

Best Application
This a perfect axe for general mountaineering and snow climbing. If you climb or aspire to climb a lot of steeper snow and ice climbs, you may not be as happy with its ability in steeper situations alone or in conjunction with another ice tool. For almost any mountaineering application this is an excellent all-around ice axe.

Value
At $6 more than the Black Diamond Raven or CAMP Neve, the Capra has a hard time because it is so similar. It is the same weight as a Raven and one ounce lighter than the Neve.