Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Light, easy to adjust with one hand
Cons: Not rated for falls, not recommended for aid leading, expensive
Best Uses: Cleaning pitches
The Metolius Easy Daisy is our favorite adjustable daisy chain. We like how it is lighter and easier to use with one hand than the Yates Adjustable Daisy. That said, you can't really use it for aid climbing leads since it is not rated to hold falls. It is great for if you are just jugging on a wall but we would never bring a pair of daisy's just for jugging and another pair for leading. So most people are probably best off just getting our favorite daisy which is the Metolius Monster Daisy Chain. Or, if you are mainly free climbing, we would recommend the Metolius Personal Anchor System which is strong and great for multi-pitch climbs.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
Most adjustable daisy chains do not have very smooth one-handed extension. The Metolius Easy Daisy changes that with a very smart system that makes it easy to extend with one hand. At the same time, it is much lighter than other adjustable daisies that use big buckles and thick webbing.
Metolius Daisy Chains are for body weight use only. They are not rated to take unexpected falls. This pretty much makes them not appropriate for aid lead climbing unless you have system where a daisy fall is never a possibility (not a system I would use).
Overall the regular daisy chains are faster and require less management. With adjustable daisy chains you have to keep them untwisted or they don't slide as well. It is also a little harder to keep yourself close into the piece when you get your waist close. You either use the daisy and are *+ inches away or you get your fifi hook on the carabiner. There is not a lot of space in between.
There excel for jumaring and cleaning pitches. If you are just going to be jugging a wall and not leading, I might go with adjustable. If you are leading, get regular daisy chains. But these can be used in free climbing situations. They will keep you at just where you want to be in the anchor better than just about any daisy. However, you will also need another clip in point or two (unlike the Personal Anchor System which is full strength).
These are more expensive than regular daisy chains. You can get a Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain for $10 less. If you are just looking for a daisy chain that works, we would go with that.
View a Video on How to Use the Metolius Easy Aider and Easy Daisy
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: February 23, 2011
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