The Best Daisy Chain For Climbing
What is the best daisy chain for climbing? We look at seven of the best options and test them head-to-head. We evaluated them on four criteria: fall absorption, ease of hooking, durability, and weight. While these products can be used for free climbing, in general, we recommend an anchor chain instead.
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Test Results and Ratings
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Analysis and Award Winners
Analysis and Test Results
If you are going to take a lot of daisy falls, nylon absorbs more force than the the Dyneema ones. So we gave top scores to the nylon contenders, followed by the nylon/Dyneema mixes followed by the Dyneema.
How important is this score and what is the difference in forces between nylon and dyneema in real aid climbing situations? It is very debatable. Read our Buying Advice article to learn more.
Ease of Hooking With a Fifi or Clipping With Carabiner
The Black Diamond Dynex scored the best because it has big perky loops that are thin and easy to clip. All the other Dyneema chains scored well as they had loops that stock out more, even when it was twisted. Nylon chains tend to have the loops lie flat more easily and be harder to hook when twisted.
The most durable were the Metolius Monster and Metolius Nylon chains. They each are the only ones with big beefy reinforcements at the clip-in point. This is something that all daisy chains made for aid climbing should have. Unless you plan to do only a couple of walls, it is great to have this point reinforced.
Weight and Bulk
The Black Diamond Dynex is by far the lightest we tested, the thinnest, and the least bulky. It was less than half the weight and bulk of most nylon chains. We really noticed a difference when pushing ascending ropes with this daisy. Where it is partially psychological or not, it really feels like this daisy weighs next to nothing. All the other Dyneema chains were also fairly light.
Consider important features like fall absorption, ease of hooking, weight, and durability when choosing to buy a daisy chain. If you're in the market for a daisy, we hope you find the content of this review useful. For more information on the details to keep in mind when making your purchase, check out our Buying Advice article.
— Chris McNamara
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