The Best Daisy Chain For Climbing

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Metolius Monster
Credit: Metoliusclimbing.com
What is the best daisy chain for climbing? We look at seven of the best options and test them head-to-head. We evaluated them on four criteria: fall absorption, ease of hooking, durability, and weight. While these products can be used for free climbing, in general, we recommend an anchor chain instead.

Read the full review below >

Review by: ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab

Top Ranked Daisy Chains

Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 << Previous | View All | Next >>
Our Ranking #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Product Name
Black Diamond Dynex Daisy Chain
Black Diamond Dynex Daisy Chain
Read the Review
Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain
Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain
Read the Review
CAMP Dyneema Daisy Chain
CAMP Dyneema Daisy Chain
Read the Review
Mammut Dyneema Daisy Chain
Mammut Dyneema Daisy Chain
Read the Review
Metolius Easy Daisy
Metolius Easy Daisy
Read the Review
Editors' Awards  Editors' Choice Award         
Street Price Varies $25 - $36
Compare at 4 sellers
Varies $15 - $16
Compare at 3 sellers
$30
Compare at 3 sellers
$33
Compare at 2 sellers
Varies $22 - $25
Compare at 4 sellers
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100% recommend it (2/2)
Pros Light, easy to get a hard bounce test withGood value, reasonably durable, big loops are easy to hook with fifi or clip with carabiner.Loops are easy to hook, good value for Dynex.Relatively light, strongLight, easy to adjust with one hand
Cons Expensive, end wears out faster than other similar products, loops are a little hard to clipNo reinforcement at end.Too short.A little too short for taller folks, expensiveNot rated for falls, not recommended for aid leading, expensive
Best Uses Alpine climbing, fast and light wallsBig wall aid climbing.Free climbing.All around climbing, big walls, ice, alpine, free climbingCleaning pitches
Date Reviewed Oct 03, 2010Oct 05, 2010Apr 04, 2011Apr 05, 2011Oct 15, 2010
Weighted Scores Black Diamond Dynex Daisy Chain Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain CAMP Dyneema Daisy Chain Mammut Dyneema Daisy Chain Metolius Easy Daisy
Fall Absorption - 20%
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5
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2
Ease Of Use - 20%
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Durability - 30%
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Weight - 30%
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Product Specs Black Diamond Dynex Daisy Chain Black Diamond Nylon Daisy Chain CAMP Dyneema Daisy Chain Mammut Dyneema Daisy Chain Metolius Easy Daisy
Weight (grams) 43 98 63 99
Material Dynex/Dyneema Nylon Dyneema Dyneema Nylon
Length (inches) 45, 55 45, 55 46 53 56
Width (mm) 12 18 12 16 19
Loop strength (lbf) 674 674 ? ? ?
Warranty

  • Review Photos
  • Editors' Choice Winners

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review



Fall Absorption


If you are going to take a lot of daisy falls, nylon absorbs more force than the the Dyneema ones. So we gave top scores to the nylon contenders, followed by the nylon/Dyneema mixes followed by the Dyneema.

How important is this score and what is the difference in forces between nylon and dyneema in real aid climbing situations? It is very debatable. Read our Buying Advice article to learn more.

Ease of Hooking With a Fifi or Clipping With Carabiner


The Black Diamond Dynex scored the best because it has big perky loops that are thin and easy to clip. All the other Dyneema chains scored well as they had loops that stock out more, even when it was twisted. Nylon chains tend to have the loops lie flat more easily and be harder to hook when twisted.

Durability


The most durable were the Metolius Monster and Metolius Nylon chains. They each are the only ones with big beefy reinforcements at the clip-in point. This is something that all daisy chains made for aid climbing should have. Unless you plan to do only a couple of walls, it is great to have this point reinforced.

Weight and Bulk


The Black Diamond Dynex is by far the lightest we tested, the thinnest, and the least bulky. It was less than half the weight and bulk of most nylon chains. We really noticed a difference when pushing ascending ropes with this daisy. Where it is partially psychological or not, it really feels like this daisy weighs next to nothing. All the other Dyneema chains were also fairly light.

The Bottom Line


The Black Diamond Dynex wins our Editors' Choice award. It is by far the lightest available. For speed ascents, alpine climbs or if you are mostly just following, this is a great choice. While in general we recommend an anchor chain for free climbing, this is lighter than the lightest anchor chain. So if you are a free climber obsessed on having the lightest gear, it is worth comparing the pros and cons of this against the BlueWater Titan Loop Chain.

If you are mainly a free climber, check out our anchor chain review and our how to buy an anchor chain article.

Chris McNamara
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