Hands-on Gear Review |
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Pros: Smooth Handling, Lightweight Cons: Expensive, Less Durable Best Uses: Traditional Climbing, Anchor Setting
Overview
The Omega Pacific Dyneema slings are a middle of the road contender in the Dyneema sling game. At 12mm wide they are lighter weight than a nylon sling, but not as lightweight as a skinny sling such as the Mammut Crocodile sling. They are fairly durable, but not quite as durable as the Trango Ultratape. Omega’s slings are a fine middle of the road option for the recreational climber that won’t be putting their slings through heavy use and abuse. If you expect your slings to go with you to hell and back, expect to replace these slings often. Bottom line is, if you are looking for the highest quality 12mm Dyneema sling, check out Trango Ultratape, or the Sterling Dyneema Sling. If weight is a huge priority to you go for the Mammut Crocodile Sling.
OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
Likes
Dyneema has become extremely popular for its ability to cut sling weight and bulk without losing strength. The Omega Pacific Dyneema sewn sling is a fairly decent option for the climber seeking a medium width, Dyneema sling. At 12mm wide it is thinner than a traditional nylon sling and runs about the middle of the pack as far as Dyneema slings go. Though not the skinniest out there, it is still a step down in weight from a traditional, bulky nylon sling. We found that the sling’s width and thickness made it one of the easiest slings we tested to untie a weighted knot. We also enjoyed the smooth handling and flexibility. Dislikes As with all Dyneema slings, there is a significant pr ice jump from traditional nylon. Omega Pacific’s 24 inch Dyneema slings run at about $7.00, making them one of the most expensive shoulder length slings we tested. In our durability test we also found these slings to be some of the least durable. We observed significantly more fraying when compared to the other 12mm Dyneema slings. Although the sling technically works as a friction knot and a rappel back-up, due to the low melting point of Dyneema, we cannot recommend that theses sling be used as a rappel back-up or in an improvised rope ascension situation. The friction of the rope on the sling can actually melt the sling, compromising the safety of the system, and ruining the sling. Check out this article by DMM about the characteristics of Nylon and Dyneema slings. Best Applications Everyday traditional climbing applications: setting anchors, extending gear placements, slinging horns. Alpine ascents. — Robert Beno
OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews of Omega Pacific Dyneema SlingMost recent review: August 28, 2010
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