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Hands-on Gear Review
Five Ten Moccasym Review
Cons: soft, stretch a lot
The Five Ten Moccasym is one of the most comfortable and convenient shoes we tested. Chris Mac has probably logged 600+ days of climbing in about six different pairs. They are just so comfortable and easy to get on and off.
These soft and sticky shoes fit well in cracks of all sizes and are the go-to shoe for many Indian Creek climbers. They feel fairly precise when new, but soften over time and work best for people with strong feet. When new, they also tend to leach dye onto your feet so don't be frightened the first time you take them off and see blood-red toes!
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Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
A classic comfortable shoe for crack climbing, the Moccasyms are an Indian Creek staple. They also work well for gym climbing, all-day climbing, and any time you want a slipper that is easy to get in and out of.
Right out of the box, the Moccasyms edge fairly well, however this doesn't last long. Due to a flat shape and lack of a midsole, these shoes do not edge particularly well. The soft feel of these shoes means that they work better for people with strong feet. Those who are just starting out or who have weak feet may want something stiffer that will help support the foot more. These shoes stretch over time, giving them less of a performance fit and decreasing the edging performance. If you are looking for a shoe to stand on invisible features, try the La Sportiva Miura VS or the La Sportiva Futura.
This is where these shoes shine. If you have ever climbed at Indian Creek, you will have noticed that a large proportion of climbers there wear this shoe. Why? Several reasons: the flat shape and lack of features on top of the foot (like laces and velcro) make these shoes fit into cracks particularly well. The soft and sticky rubber grips the inside of cracks and allows your feet to mold into openings of any size. Since the shoes lack laces, you don't have to worry about tearing up the laces as you slide your feet up 100+ feet of a number 1 sized crack, instead the most you have to worry about it wearing out the rubber on the instep where it rubs against the edge of cracks.
Since the Moccasym lacks any down-turn, they don't sink into pockets as well as something like the La Sportiva Miura. Like with edging, these shoes feel fairly precise when right out of the box and feel mushier and softer after they stretch and wear-in.
Since the Moccasym are soft and without a midsole, they are extremely sensitive. They are also incredibly sticky, and work well for smearing when you need to paste your foot to the wall.
The Moccasym is an extremely convenient or comfortable climbing shoe. Right out of the box they hug your feet just like well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off, which is nice at the gym, the crag, or even during a hanging belay. They are incredibly comfortable when foot-jamming in cracks, and the flat design makes them comfortable to wear while standing or for longer periods of time.
If you plan to climb splitters at at Indian Creek, you can't get a better shoe than this one. This shoe excels at smooth crack climbing. If you like cracks but mostly climb on granite, you may prefer the stiffer and more protective La Sportiva TC Pro. If you usually climb on rock that involves precise edging, look for something stiffer.
Since these shoes are comfortable and easy to take on and off, they are also great for wearing to the gym or for all day climbs when a comfortable shoe is preferable.
These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe around $99 was a bargain (and we seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $89 shoes like the Evolv Defy, and the price of these has bumped to $125, these have much stronger competition. However, if you are a crack master, purchasing the right weapon for the job is never a bad idea, and these are completely worth the price.
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— McKenzie Long and Chris McNamara
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Most recent review: July 15, 2016
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