First Look Gear Review
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Pros: Stiff and flat sole made out of sticky C4 rubber dominates vertical terrain. The assymetrical pointed toe tip does what it's meant to do: edge on a dime. The classic lace-up design is highly adjustable.
Cons: Too flat and stiff for extremely steep angles of rock. Laces are not good for bouldering where you most often prefer the quick on/off of a slip-on or strap-on.
Best Uses: This shoe is made for thin face climbing on vertical and less than vertical rock. It excels at standing on micro edges, tiny pockets and ultra thin cracks. When fit loose they can work well on long moderate routes as well.
"The Pinkies" are back! I actually bought a pair of the originals to save for slab emergencies when I heard they were discontinuing them many years ago. I still have them saved for just the right technical dead vert face or slabby project in my future. I've heard of a few world class climbers that had done the same thing. The proven shape and overall design of the Five Ten Anasazi VCS is tried and true and is given just a bit more stiffness and adjustability with the lacing system.
This new version has an improved heel which is the most drastic change and also a much needed improvement. The new heel cup fits more snug allowing greater control when heel-hooking. The uppers are also lined with synthetic Cowdura to keep them from stretching out too much. The pink color might not be popular with most "manly men" so that could be the one downside and may have even contributed to its previous demise. All in all the new changes seem to be for the better. Time will tell if we give this shoe a full "Hands On Review" in the future or if it will just be another highly specialized piece of gear that doesn't quite make the cut.
For very similar high performance lace-up shoes check out the La Sportiva Miura or if you like the technical edging prowess of the Anasazi design but climb steeper stone, then check out the aggressive/down-turned Five Ten Dragon.
— Chris Summit
OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: July 17, 2014
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