Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Good edging, great value, sticky rubber.
Cons: Wears our pretty fast.
Best Uses: Gym climbing, sport climbing, bouldering.
Manufacturer: Mad Rock
This was the winner of our Best Buy award from 2010 to 2012. In 2013, it got upgraded to the Mad Rock Flash 2.0 which is our new best buy winner. T
Below is the review of the original Mad Rock Flash
It is about the cheapest shoe you can find and still performs solidly. It has a pointy toe design similar to the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. Mad Rock's custom "ribbed for your hooking pleasure" type heel design give you extra grip on certain heel hook moves (we don't heel hook much and don't notice it).
We like how beefy feeling the Velcro closure feels. It is coated in rubber and feels solid when you latch the shoes on. The inside tongue lining is made of a unique neoprene-like material. Overall, we find the Anasazi VCS is more precise on the small edges and the rubber lasts longer. The Flash rubber is very sticky, but seems to wear out faster than other rock shoes. We feel it is more precise on small edges than the similarly priced Evolv Defy. We have been impressed with the Flash, especially for the price. These are great for the gyms, sport climbing, and bouldering. This is a great first climbing shoe but we climb with it on El Cap and love it. We used to mostly use the Five Ten Moccasym as our comfort/gym/multi-pitch shoe. But we switched to the Flash because of how much performance it gives in an inexpensive package. If you want a similar shoe with laces, there is the Mad Rock Phoenix.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
This shoe is incredibly precise for is price. Most other shoes that edge better cost nearly double. It is comfortable and a great all-around shoe. Fit 'em tight for hard projects or get 'em a half size bigger if you want a shoe for all-day comfort. The asymetrical toe shape gets in little pockets and small edges.
The rubber is very soft and sticky. It smears superbly whether on a slab or pasting your foot on a distant roof sloper.
These seem to wear out faster than other shoes. The rubber is very soft and tacky but also seems to go fast.
This is one of the best values in climbing shoes and gets our Best Buy award. It is half the cost of most shoes that score better. For $150, you can get two pair: a tiny pair for hard sends and sport climbing and a loose pair for multi-pitch climbs and comfort.
— Chris McNamara and Chris Summit
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: May 8, 2013
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