Hands-on Gear Review

Compare climbing shoes ratings side-by-side >

Five Ten Moccasym Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.4/5
Overall avg rating 4.4 of 5 based on 3 reviews. Most recent review: September 25, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $115 - $120 | Compare prices at 9 resellers
Pros:  comfortable, convenient, fits well in many sizes of cracks
Cons:  soft, stretch a lot
Best Uses:  gym climbing, crack climbing
User Rating:     
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0 of 5) based on 2 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (2/2) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Senior Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ September 25, 2014  
Overview
The Five Ten Moccasym is one of the most comfortable and convenient shoes we tested. Chris Mac has probably logged 600+ days of climbing in about six different pairs. They are just so comfortable and easy to get on and off.

These soft and sticky shoes fit well in cracks of all sizes and are the go-to shoe for many Indian Creek climbers. They feel fairly precise when new, but soften over time and work best for people with strong feet. When new, they also tend to leach dye onto your feet…so don't be frightened the first time you take them off and see blood-red toes!

Compare top rated competitors side-by-side >

  • Photos
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge


OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

A classic comfortable shoe for crack climbing, the Moccasyms are an Indian Creek staple. They also work well for gym climbing, all-day climbing, and any time you want a slipper that is easy to get in and out of.

Performance Comparison

Click to enlarge
McKenzie Long climbing Top Sirloin, Second Meat Wall, Indian Creek, UT in the Five Ten Moccasym. The flat slipper design with no laces or velcro on top of the foot make these shoes ideal for crack climbing, especially the splitter cracks found at the Creek.
Credit: Drew Smith

Edging
Right out of the box, the Moccasyms edge fairly well, however this doesn't last long. Due to a flat shape and lack of a midsole, these shoes do not edge particularly well. The soft feel of these shoes means that they work better for people with strong feet. Those who are just starting out or who have weak feet may want something stiffer that will help support the foot more. These shoes stretch over time, giving them less of a performance fit and decreasing the edging performance. If you are looking for a shoe to stand on invisible features, try the La Sportiva Miura VS or the La Sportiva Futura.

Crack Climbing
This is where these shoes shine. If you have ever climbed at Indian Creek, you will have noticed that a large proportion of climbers there wear this shoe. Why? Several reasons: the flat shape and lack of features on top of the foot (like laces and velcro) make these shoes fit into cracks particularly well. The soft and sticky rubber grips the inside of cracks and allows your feet to mold into openings of any size. Since the shoes lack laces, you don't have to worry about tearing up the laces as you slide your feet up 100+ feet of a number 1 sized crack, instead the most you have to worry about it wearing out the rubber on the instep where it rubs against the edge of cracks.

Click to enlarge
McKenzie Long on Scarface at Indian Creek, Utah while wearing the Five Ten Moccasym. This is the classic shoe to wear while climbing cracks in this area.
Credit: Lindsay Smith

Pockets
Since the Moccasym lacks any down-turn, they don't sink into pockets as well as something like the La Sportiva Miura. Like with edging, these shoes feel fairly precise when right out of the box and feel mushier and softer after they stretch and wear-in.

Sensitivity
Since the Moccasym are soft and without a midsole, they are extremely sensitive. They are also incredibly sticky, and work well for smearing when you need to paste your foot to the wall.

=Comfort
The Moccasym is an extremely convenient or comfortable climbing shoe. Right out of the box they hug your feet just like… well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off, which is nice at the gym, the crag, or even during a hanging belay. They are incredibly comfortable when foot-jamming in cracks, and the flat design makes them comfortable to wear while standing or for longer periods of time.

Best Application
If you plan to climb splitters at at Indian Creek, you can't get a better shoe than this one. This shoe excels at smooth crack climbing. If you like cracks but mostly climb on granite, you may prefer the stiffer and more protective La Sportiva TC Pro. If you usually climb on rock that involves precise edging, look for something stiffer.

Since these shoes are comfortable and easy to take on and off, they are also great for wearing to the gym or for all day climbs when a comfortable shoe is preferable.

Value
These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe around $99 was a bargain (and we seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $89 shoes like the Evolv Defy, and the price of these has bumped to $115, these have much stronger competition. However, if you are a crack master, purchasing the right weapon for the job is never a bad idea, and these are completely worth the price.

Other Versions
Five Ten offers a variety of shoes, including the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. The Five Ten Anasazi VCS is one of the best climbing shoes on the market and one of the most popular among experienced climbers.

The Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's, $155, is an all-around climbing shoe that is comfortable and still performs well.

McKenzie Long and Chris McNamara

Compare this product side-by-side to top competitors >

Where to Buy?


Thinking about buying some gear we've reviewed? Help OutdoorGearLab out if you do. Just click on any of the above seller links and if you make any purchase, the seller will contribute a portion of the sale to help support this site. It won't cost you anything extra, and it's a simple way to help us fund our gear reviews. Thanks!

*Most retailers free shipping offers apply only to lower 48 US states using ground/economy shipping. See retailer's website for details.


OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: September 25, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (5.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
Write a Review on this Gear

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 1, 2013 - 12:55am
Kari P · Climber · New Hampshire
I've owned two pairs of Moccasyms (one pair used and needing a rand repair that were given to me by a friend, another pair I bought used to replace those), and I LOVE them. My Mocs are by far the most comfortable of any rock shoe I have tried - they can fit snug without being painful. They smear well and are easy for getting into small cracks. Mine don't edge well, but they are in need of a resole which should help.

I use these for gym, sport, trad, multipitch, and bouldering. They are not very technical, and probably don't excel at any one discipline well, but their comfort makes them a good do anything shoe. They are easy to get on and off, and the heel sticks pretty well for a moc, although aggressive heel hooks are a no go (moderate heel hooks sometimes work, but in general, I would say heel hooking is not this shoe's strength at all). The red color does bleed for a while during break in or when your feet sweat excessively, but my feet don't turn red anymore. These are leather, so they do stretch quite a bit from when you buy them and mold well to different foot shapes. I am a female with a wider forefoot, narrow heel, and average arch and these fit me very well. For all day comfort and a mix of climbing styles, these are great shoes.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Help other readers find the most helpful reviews
Was this review helpful to you? 
Yes
 
No

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jan 11, 2010 - 11:45am
jfailing · Climber · Lone Pine
Quite possibly the best shoe ever. I was turned on to these and told to size them tight, as I had been wearing shoes that were way to big. As soon as they broke in, I honestly started climbing a number grade harder.

They're killer in cracks, super-money for smearing, and pretty solid on the small stuff. The only thing they don't do is heel-hooking, which I'm against using unless absolutely necessary, so it works out for me.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Help other readers find the most helpful reviews
Was this review helpful to you? 
Yes
 
No


Have you used the Five Ten Moccasym?
Don't hold back. Share your viewpoint by posting a review with your thoughts...

Write a Review on this Gear
Click to enlarge
Five Ten Moccasym
Credit: fiveten.com
Where's the Best Price?
Seller Price
Backcountry $114.95
CampSaver $114.95
MooseJaw $114.95
Compare prices at 9 sellers >

*Help support OutdoorGearLab. If you click on one of the seller links and make a purchase, a portion of the sale helps support this site
Related Best-in-Class Review
The Best Rock Climbing Shoes Review

The Best Rock Climbing Shoes Review

We took over 20 pairs of the best rock climbing shoes and subjected them to head-to-head competition to find the best.
Helpful Buying Tips
Get More OutdoorGearLab
Follow us on Twitter, be a fan on Facebook!
Subscribe to our Newsletter
Related Gear Reviews