Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: comfortable, convenient
Best Uses: gym climbing, crack climbing, sport climbing, some bouldering
The Five Ten Moccasym is one of the most comfortable and convenient Five Ten shoes I have ever owned. I probably have 600+ days of climbing on about six different pairs. They are just so comfortable and easy to get on and off.
Most people who buy these climbing shoes for the gym, love them and never look back. Most people who buy these for the their "comfy shoes" often find themselves mostly using them on just about everything (as I did). It's surprising how often a "gym slipper" works well for just about everything. If I was buying multiple shoes for multiple applications, I would get a pair of these and the Five Ten Anasazi VCS or the La Sportiva Miura. However, if I were on a budget or just starting out and and could only buy one pair, I would go with the Evolv Defy or Mad Rock Flash because they are less expensive and will have a bigger range of applications.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
I have never owned a more convenient or comfortable pair of climbing shoes. Right of of the box they hug your feet just like well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off which is nice at the gym or the crag or even a hanging belay. They are great in cracks as well as smearing. They often fit snug, tight and solid in thin hand cracks. When they are new, they are more precise than most other slippers I have tried.
At first, I feel like these are almost as precise as the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. Over time however, what makes them so comfortable, also makes them soften up and get "mushy." This is to be expected from any unlined slipper. Just keep that in mind when buying: they will not always be as precise as they are when you are trying them on. Also, when these are new, they will leave your feet red (or your socks). Not a big deal, but I have never owned a pair of shoes that transferred so much dye to my feet.
These excel for the gym and the crag. I use them as my "comfy" shoe that I wear anytime I am not trying to do my hardest lead and just want something I can hang out in and easily take on and off.
These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe at or below $99 was a bargain (and i seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $85 shoes like the Evolv Defy, these have much stronger competition. So I would say that at $99 these are good, but no longer great value.
Video on the Design features of Five Ten's Slippers
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: February 20, 2010
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