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Five Ten Moccasym Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.4/5
Overall avg rating 4.4 of 5 based on 3 reviews. Most recent review: October 1, 2013
Street Price:   Varies from $70 - $120 | Compare prices at 10 resellers
Pros:  comfortable, convenient
Cons:  soft
Best Uses:  gym climbing, crack climbing, sport climbing, some bouldering
User Rating:     
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 (5.0 of 5) based on 2 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (2/2) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ February 20, 2010  
Overview
The Five Ten Moccasym is one of the most comfortable and convenient Five Ten shoes I have ever owned. I probably have 600+ days of climbing on about six different pairs. They are just so comfortable and easy to get on and off.

Most people who buy these climbing shoes for the gym, love them and never look back. Most people who buy these for the their "comfy shoes" often find themselves mostly using them on just about everything (as I did). It's surprising how often a "gym slipper" works well for just about everything. If I was buying multiple shoes for multiple applications, I would get a pair of these and the Five Ten Anasazi VCS or the La Sportiva Miura. However, if I were on a budget or just starting out and and could only buy one pair, I would go with the Evolv Defy or Mad Rock Flash because they are less expensive and will have a bigger range of applications.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
I have never owned a more convenient or comfortable pair of climbing shoes. Right of of the box they hug your feet just like… well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off which is nice at the gym or the crag or even a hanging belay. They are great in cracks as well as smearing. They often fit snug, tight and solid in thin hand cracks. When they are new, they are more precise than most other slippers I have tried.

Dislikes
At first, I feel like these are almost as precise as the Five Ten Anasazi VCS. Over time however, what makes them so comfortable, also makes them soften up and get "mushy." This is to be expected from any unlined slipper. Just keep that in mind when buying: they will not always be as precise as they are when you are trying them on. Also, when these are new, they will leave your feet red (or your socks). Not a big deal, but I have never owned a pair of shoes that transferred so much dye to my feet.

Best Application
These excel for the gym and the crag. I use them as my "comfy" shoe that I wear anytime I am not trying to do my hardest lead and just want something I can hang out in and easily take on and off.

Value
These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe at or below $99 was a bargain (and i seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $85 shoes like the Evolv Defy, these have much stronger competition. So I would say that at $99 these are good, but no longer great value.

Video on the Design features of Five Ten's Slippers

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: October 1, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (5.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Oct 1, 2013 - 12:55am
Kari P · Climber · New Hampshire
I've owned two pairs of Moccasyms (one pair used and needing a rand repair that were given to me by a friend, another pair I bought used to replace those), and I LOVE them. My Mocs are by far the most comfortable of any rock shoe I have tried - they can fit snug without being painful. They smear well and are easy for getting into small cracks. Mine don't edge well, but they are in need of a resole which should help.

I use these for gym, sport, trad, multipitch, and bouldering. They are not very technical, and probably don't excel at any one discipline well, but their comfort makes them a good do anything shoe. They are easy to get on and off, and the heel sticks pretty well for a moc, although aggressive heel hooks are a no go (moderate heel hooks sometimes work, but in general, I would say heel hooking is not this shoe's strength at all). The red color does bleed for a while during break in or when your feet sweat excessively, but my feet don't turn red anymore. These are leather, so they do stretch quite a bit from when you buy them and mold well to different foot shapes. I am a female with a wider forefoot, narrow heel, and average arch and these fit me very well. For all day comfort and a mix of climbing styles, these are great shoes.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jan 11, 2010 - 11:45am
jfailing · Climber · Lone Pine
Quite possibly the best shoe ever. I was turned on to these and told to size them tight, as I had been wearing shoes that were way to big. As soon as they broke in, I honestly started climbing a number grade harder.

They're killer in cracks, super-money for smearing, and pretty solid on the small stuff. The only thing they don't do is heel-hooking, which I'm against using unless absolutely necessary, so it works out for me.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Five Ten Moccasym
Credit: fiveten.com
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