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Five Ten Anasazi Verde Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.7/5
Overall avg rating 4.7 of 5 based on 7 reviews. Most recent review: March 31, 2013
Street Price:   Varies from $63 - $165 | Compare prices at 5 resellers
Pros:  Great edging, sticky rubber, great in shallow pockets.
Cons:  Expensive, not most sensitive.
Best Uses:  Hard redpoints on technical faces.
User Rating:     
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 (4.5 of 5) based on 6 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (5/5) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ April 23, 2010  
Overview
Everyone loved the pink Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up. The Anasazi Verde is the new one that retains much of the old design with a new heel design intended to be more comfortable with less dead space. This shoe is stiff as a board and ideal for tiny micro edging. This shoe uses the new Stealth Onyxx rubber. The Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco uses the traditional Stealth C4 Rubber.

Now that most performance shoes have a down-turned toe, these seem old school compared to something like the Five Ten Arrowhead. But for people who want a performance shoe with a more conservative and traditional design, this one is hard to beat.

We would use a slightly softer-soled shoe like the Five Ten Anasazi VCS as the everyday sport climbing shoe and save this one as the redpoint shoe. Another shoe to compare this to is the La Sportiva Miura. Both are technical climbing masters. The Anasazi Lace-Up is ideal for more experienced climbers. For beginning climbers, we would recommend a cheaper and more comfortable shoe like the Mad Rock Flash.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
The Five Ten Anasazi Verde is a great shoe for tiny edges. It's been around forever (in slightly different variations) and has put up a ton of super-hard redpoints. It has a better heel design than the old Anasazi Lace-Up. This shoe performs well whether it's at a micro edge or a shallow limestone pocket.

Dislikes
It has such an aggressive shape that it is not ideal for long climbs unless you get it really big. We wouldn't do that because the whole point of this shoe is to have a tight, high performance secret weapon for those climbs at your limit where you need every little advantage. It's not a comfortable shoe (but it is not supposed to be). Get it tight and feel every micron of the rock! Like any lace shoe, it takes a bit to get on and off. That is one reason we do most of our climbing in the Anasazi VCS. Either you have to make an effort to keep this shoe clean or accept that it will show all the wear you have put it through. Synthetic uppers don't last as long as leather. If you climb a lot of cracks they wear out fast.

Best Application
This is a technical face climbing shoe, best for thin granite and small pocketed limestone. It's ideal for experienced climbers looking for an edge. It's not an entry level shoe both because of its price and stiffness.

Value
This is one of the more expensive shoes available. That said, because I usually use it as a redpoint shoe, it should last forever. I would not use it as a workhorse shoe for everyday climbing. Better to go with a cheaper Velcro shoe like the Evolv Defy for that.

Video on the Features of the Anasazi Line

Other Versions
-Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco
-Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Pink
-Five Ten Anasazi VCS

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: March 31, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.5)

100% of 5 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 71%  (5)
4 star: 14%  (1)
3 star: 14%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 6 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Mar 31, 2013 - 12:32pm
DW · Climber · Redmond, OR
This shoe is designed for technical edging on near vertical terrain. It works well on slabs of any angle. It works on over vertical terrain as well but is not meant to perform optimally in this environment. The rubber is highly durable and grips very will with little contact. I size down about two sizes from my street shoe size. They will stretch one full size. I do recommend skipping eyelets during the break in process.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Nov 27, 2011 - 11:33am
kingofthering · Climber · Vienna
I love this shoe.
I just wanted to say,
i think the difference between the verde and the blanco anasazi ist a lot bigger than the difference between the VCS and the verde.
I own both the verde and the VCS and for me they are pretty much the same.
the only difference is the lace up/velcro closure.
The Blanco has a much thicker sole than the VCS and verde.
The C4 of the blanco looks like it΄s twice as thick as on the verde/VCS
and the heel has a lot more tension than on the other two anasazis.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 31, 2011 - 08:45am
motta.rr · Climber · Rio de Janeiro
Last year I bougth a pair of those online on the same size as my vcs one (10). They weren't super tight but were great for multi-pit climbing. For my disappointment it streated out to the point that I could walk around with it (not that I have tried). Other from that it's a very good shoe and I'm locking foward to buy a new one but this time 1/2 size smaller.
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   Mar 17, 2011 - 07:02pm
jewedlaw · Climber · San Francisco, CA
I love my Anasazi Verdes. I got them about two years ago, and I climb on them nearly 3 times a week, both indoor and outdoor! They are very sensitive and the rubber is great--confidence inspiring indeed! The heel is good, although if I don't tie them tight enough, tend to slip a little. It is nearing retirement time for these puppies, though. I tend to drag my toes when mantling or flagging, and both shoes have worn rands down to the toes, which nearly poke through. The toe-edge rubber is still good, though! They are pretty painful in fist-sized cracks, but maybe I'm a wuss. After all the vertical feet logged in these shoes, they stretched and molded very well to my (pretty wide) feet. I would say now that they are quite comfortable, and often leave them on for hours at a time.

I hesitated when selecting if I'd recommend it to a friend. Would I recommend them for their quality? Yes. Would I recommend it to a friend who I climb with? No. These shoes REEK. Synthetic lace-ups. I often sweat in these guys for hours, and you can tell. I spray them down with antibacterial gym spray each time I'm there, and leave them out of my pack when stored. Still, you can smell them from miles away. I guess that's the price you pay for good shoes, but damn… why don't my old climbing partners return my calls?

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Feb 9, 2011 - 04:40pm
bluemutt · Climber
having just started climbing i feel that this shoe has got me climbing harder routes with confidence. The shoe is tight but when work in the grip is good. i well buy this shoe again:)

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
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   Aug 9, 2010 - 05:32am
Andyfin · Climber
I get a feel from the supertopo review above that they might have mistaken the Verde to the Anasazi Laceup V2 Blanco.
Verdes have not replaced the old red anasazi laceup, the V2 blancos have.
My Verdes feel softer than the Anasazi velcros or Anasazi laceup V2 Blancos, probably partly because I got Verdes in a slightly larger size.

Verdes are similar looking as Blancos, but are made of Onyx rubber sole which less stiff and apparently has better friction in slightly colder temperatures. (Blancos also have a lower toe box and are stiffer with original stealth c4 hence better for standing on tiny holds.)

In my opinion Verdes are better for redpointing where friction is important and you have to stand around on non existing holds (not edges) for short periods of time. Verdes dont offer support thought pulling the laces tight helps. The feel is very good in them and they are one of the most precise shoes I've tried.
For more support (maybe for onsigthing) and standing on small edges the Anasazi V2 blancos might be a better option.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Five Ten Anasazi Verde
Credit: Fiveten.com
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