The Best Rock Climbing Rope |
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We got together 13 of the top climbing ropes and after lots of unwinding and flaking, put them to the test in a giant summer of climbing on ropes for comparison. Comparing ropes turned out to be much harder than expected. Obviously, all the ropes performed the basic functions of catching falls, being rappel lines and protecting climbers. So what were the main differences? Obviously ropes differ in length and diameter, but what about two ropes of the same diameter? Some ropes had some special features, such as the Mammut Teflon Coating Finish and the Maxim Glider TPT sheath weave. But from the point of view of a buyer standing in a store and looking at two 10.2mm ropes, such as the Maxim Equinox and the Beal Edlinger – what can we say about the differences? Between manufacturers there were slight differences in the weight and strength of each rope, but these are just technical specs. From the point of view of a climber at the crag using two 9.8mm ropes like the Mammut Tusk and the Petzl Nomad, how are they different in real life applications? Durability came out a huge difference, and handling and ease of use also stood out, but this is tough to measure.
Read the full review below > |
| Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab | December 11, 2010 |
| Top Ranked Climbing Ropes (Dynamic) | Displaying 1 - 5 of 13 | << Previous | View All | Next >> |
| Our Ranking | #1 | #2 | #3 | #4 | #5 | ||||||||||
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| Editors' Awards | | | | ||||||||||||
| Street Price | Varies $240 - $300 Compare at 6 sellers | $195 Compare at 1 sellers | Varies $170 - $240 Compare at 3 sellers | $190 Compare at 1 sellers | Varies $212 - $235 Compare at 6 sellers | ||||||||||
| Overall Score |
100
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94
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100
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92
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100
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89
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100
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86
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100
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83
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| Editors' Rating |
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| User Rating |
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| Pros | Teflon Coating, light and easy to handle. | 1 over 1 TPT sheath design, feeds really well, stays new longer than most ropes | Lightweight for a long rope, durable especially for being so thin, Teflon coating. | Light for its diameter, extra durable sheath | Climb Ready Coil, versatile, more durable than expected | ||||||||||
| Cons | Not most versatile. | Sometimes sheath loosens at the end | Not the best for an all-around rope. | No middle mark | More expensive than similar ropes | ||||||||||
| Best Uses | Multi-pitch and alpine climbs, sport climbing. | All-around climbing, trad climbs, big walls | Sport climbing, alpine climbing. | General climbing | All-around climbing | ||||||||||
| Date Reviewed | Oct 27, 2010 | Aug 11, 2011 | Oct 20, 2010 | Oct 20, 2010 | Nov 01, 2010 | ||||||||||
| Weighted Scores | Mammut Infinity | Maxim Glider | Mammut Revelation | BlueWater Pulse | Petzl Nomad | ||||||||||
| Glide Feed - 30% |
10
0
10
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10
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10
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10
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9
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10
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8
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10
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9
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| Lock Off - 20% |
10
0
8
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10
0
10
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10
0
6
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10
0
8
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10
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7
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| Handling - 20% |
10
0
9
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10
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9
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10
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10
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10
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8
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10
0
9
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| Durability - 30% |
10
0
10
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10
0
8
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10
0
10
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10
0
10
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10
0
8
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| Product Specs | Mammut Infinity | Maxim Glider | Mammut Revelation | BlueWater Pulse | Petzl Nomad | ||||||||||
| COLOR | Orange | Red and Black | Blueish | Green | Green | ||||||||||
| Coating? | Teflon coating | Teflon coating | |||||||||||||
| GLIDE FEED | At first, really smooth glide (older now, so rougher.) | Feeds really well, smooth | |||||||||||||
| LOCK OFF IN GRI GRI & REVERSO | thick, so good lock | Very thin, below gri-gri recommended thickness, however, still locks off well | |||||||||||||
| GENERAL HANDLING | (never jugged on such a thin rope) everything else handles well. Easy to coil and carry for such a long rope because it is light. Middle mark for rap. | Soft catches, stiff | soft and supple | ||||||||||||
| DURABILITY | Teflon = more durable | ends pulled through after a lot of rappelling | after a lot of use, the ends frayed a little and I had to cut a couple inches off. Overall, holds up well | Extra strong 40-carrier sheath | |||||||||||
| MIDDLE MARK OR BICOLOR? | Mid mark | Bi pattern | middle mark | Bluewater does not use mid marks | Mid mark | ||||||||||
| UIAA FALLS | 6 ? 7 | 9 | 5 ? 6 | 7 | 7 | ||||||||||
| WEIGHT | 58 g/m | 66 g/m | 55 g/m | 62 g/m | 63 g/m | ||||||||||
| LENGTH | 60m | 70m | 70m | 60m | 60m | ||||||||||
| DIAMETER | 9.5 mm | 10.2 mm | 9.2mm | 9.9 mm | 9.8 mm | ||||||||||
| DRY? | Superdry | Double Dry | superdry | no | Duratec Dry | ||||||||||
| PRICE (for My Exact Rope) | $230 60m | $287 70 m bi | $254 70m | $199 60 m | $225 60 m |
OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
Ultimately, all of the ropes in this review were top notch, so the content of these reviews is about the nit-picky details where a few ropes edge ahead of the others.
Handling This category may seem a little vague, but it measures the suppleness of the ropes and the overall feel of the rope while carrying, climbing, and belaying. We gravitated towards the lighter ropes, such as the Mammut Revelation and the Petzl Fuse, because they were much less arduous to backpack, coil, carry, and climb with simply because they did not weigh as much. These ropes also took up less space in a pack because they were thinner. Overall, in whatever situation these ropes were used, they were easy to pack and handle, which made us want to use these ropes more than some of the others. Glide/Feed How well does your rope feed through a belay device when giving out slack to the leader and how well does it glide through pieces of protection while climbing? Usually you want the rope to feel as smooth as possible so things are easy on the leader. While you are up there giving it their all, the last thing you want is a rough rope adding extra friction and pump. Here the skinny ropes seemed to take the lead. The lighter and thinner the rope, the easier is is to give out slack. Also, ropes with a coating finish, either a dry coating or the Mammut Teflon coating had a much smoother glide and feed, and kept this feel much longer than ropes with no coating. Lock-Off The opposite of glide and feed is lock-off, which is how much friction the rope has when locking in a belay device (maybe one of the most important functions of a rope). Ideally climbers would like a rope that is great at both. Obviously the skinny ropes do not lock-off very well in a first generation gri-gri since it is only rated to catch falls in ropes down to10mm, but every rope held up well in an atc style belay device. The fatter ropes got better scores in this category, simply because locking-off is easier in any type of device than with the skinny ones. Durability Obviously, when you throw down a good deal of money on an expensive piece of equipment, you want it to last you a while. Ropes seem to be the piece of climbing equipment that gets retired most often. However, some still last longer than others. Ropes like the Mammut Infinity and Mammut Revelation stood out because of their Teflon coating, which made the sheaths hold up better when being dragged over rough rock. The same is true of the Maxim Glider with its one-over-one sheath weave, a detail that makes the sheath more durable, and the BlueWater Pulse, which has a 40-bobbin sheath that is extra burly. The Bottom Line Editor's Choice Award The Mammut Infinity (9.5mm) wins the Editors' Choice award because it is one of the most durable and versatile ropes. It is easy to handle and lightweight so it can be brought on many different kinds of climbs and approaches. If we had to buy just one rope, this would be the one to put money on. Close behind comes the Mammut Revelation, which is very similar in features, also having a Teflon coating, but slightly thinner (9.2mm) so less versatile. Also a tough contestant was the Maxim Glider – which conveniently comes in multiple diameter options. Its unique one-over-one TPT sheath weave makes it feed and handle better than any of the others and stay thinner and newer longer. Best Buy Award This award easily goes to the Maxim Equinox because it was drastically cheaper than most other ropes. Buying a rope is always a hit to the checking account, and it is nice to see that there is at least one option of a relatively inexpensive yet quality rope. — McKenzie Long Buying Advice
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