Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: $235 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros: Climb Ready Coil, versatile, more durable than expected
Cons: More expensive than similar ropes
Best Uses: All-around climbing
The 9.8mm is a worthwhile, very versatile climbing rope. It weighs in at 63 g/m, which makes it not too heavy, but it still retains enough thickness to make it useful in multiple applications. If you want a rope with the same features as this one, but are on a budget, the Mammut Tusk is similar but less expensive. If you want a skinnier rope for sending, and you like the Petzl ropes, the Petzl Fuse is 9.4mm. If you are worried about the Pezl rope's durability, the BlueWater Pulse is another medium diameter rope with an extra thick, durable sheath.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
9.8 All-Around Rope
At 9.8mm, this rope is a medium thickness diameter, which is a good balance between strength and weight. (63 g/m, and a UIAA rating of 7.) This diameter gives the rope more versatility than both the thinner and thicker ropes, making it a great choice if you only own one rope.
It is a soft, supple rope and handles very similar to the thinner Petzl Fuse, but with slightly more weight.
At first we were a little leery of this rope because we had heard reports from other climbers who thought this rope, and Petzl ropes in general, wore out quickly. Luckily, this rope was no less durable than most of the others we evaluated and seemed to take a beating, even over rough granite. For being a relatively high priced rope, it stood up to the durability test.
Options and Other Versions
The Petzl ropes come with a Duratec Dry coating and are available in 60 and 70 meter lengths.
Of all the ropes out there, Petzl ropes come in the easiest to unwrap coil. I thought the "Climb Ready Coil" would be laughable, but you can actually climb on the rope right out of the package without horrendous tangles. This is a great time saver, some of the other ropes, like the Sterling Marathon Pro, the BlueWater Lightning Pro, and especially the Beal Edlinger, took some time to carefully unwind, and they still were pretty kinky for the first day of use. The Petzl Nomad and the Petzl Fuse were both surprisingly smooth to handle right away.
As a 9.8mm, this medium diameter rope is good for just about anything you can dream up.
The main complaint we have about this rope is the price in comparison to other similar ropes like the Mammut Tusk and the BlueWater Pulse, which cost less. Both Petzl ropes in this review are the same price, regardless of diameter. $235 is a lot of money, but also a pretty average price for a nice rope. Since the Nomad is such a versatile rope, it could be worth shelling out the dough because you could get a lot of use out of it, however, we would lean toward buying the Tusk, which performs about the same for less dollars.
— McKenzie Long
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: June 4, 2013
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