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Petzl Nomad Review

   

Climbing Ropes (Dynamic)

  • Currently 3.2/5
Overall avg rating 3.2 of 5 based on 4 reviews. Most recent review: June 4, 2013
Street Price:   $235 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros:  Climb Ready Coil, versatile, more durable than expected
Cons:  More expensive than similar ropes
Best Uses:  All-around climbing
User Rating:     
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 (3.3 of 5) based on 3 reviews
Recommendations:  67% of reviewers (2/3) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Petzl
Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ June 4, 2013  
Overview
The 9.8mm is a worthwhile, very versatile climbing rope. It weighs in at 63 g/m, which makes it not too heavy, but it still retains enough thickness to make it useful in multiple applications. If you want a rope with the same features as this one, but are on a budget, the Mammut Tusk is similar but less expensive. If you want a skinnier rope for sending, and you like the Petzl ropes, the Petzl Fuse is 9.4mm. If you are worried about the Pezl rope's durability, the BlueWater Pulse is another medium diameter rope with an extra thick, durable sheath.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Performance Comparison
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McKenzie Long follows a pitch in Tuolumne Meadows on the Petzl Nomad. This rope is smooth and easy to use right out of the package. It isn't kinky because of its Climb Ready Coil.
Credit: Luke Lydiard

9.8 All-Around Rope

Weight
At 9.8mm, this rope is a medium thickness diameter, which is a good balance between strength and weight. (63 g/m, and a UIAA rating of 7.) This diameter gives the rope more versatility than both the thinner and thicker ropes, making it a great choice if you only own one rope.

Handling
It is a soft, supple rope and handles very similar to the thinner Petzl Fuse, but with slightly more weight.

Durability
At first we were a little leery of this rope because we had heard reports from other climbers who thought this rope, and Petzl ropes in general, wore out quickly. Luckily, this rope was no less durable than most of the others we evaluated and seemed to take a beating, even over rough granite. For being a relatively high priced rope, it stood up to the durability test.

Options and Other Versions
The Petzl ropes come with a Duratec Dry coating and are available in 60 and 70 meter lengths.

Of all the ropes out there, Petzl ropes come in the easiest to unwrap coil. I thought the “Climb Ready Coil” would be laughable, but you can actually climb on the rope right out of the package without horrendous tangles. This is a great time saver, some of the other ropes, like the Sterling Marathon Pro, the BlueWater Lightning Pro, and especially the Beal Edlinger, took some time to carefully unwind, and they still were pretty kinky for the first day of use. The Petzl Nomad and the Petzl Fuse were both surprisingly smooth to handle right away.

Best Application
As a 9.8mm, this medium diameter rope is good for just about anything you can dream up.

Value
The main complaint we have about this rope is the price in comparison to other similar ropes like the Mammut Tusk and the BlueWater Pulse, which cost less. Both Petzl ropes in this review are the same price, regardless of diameter. $235 is a lot of money, but also a pretty average price for a nice rope. Since the Nomad is such a versatile rope, it could be worth shelling out the dough because you could get a lot of use out of it, however, we would lean toward buying the Tusk, which performs about the same for less dollars.

McKenzie Long

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: June 4, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.3)

67% of 3 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 25%  (1)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 25%  (1)
Sort 3 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Mar 23, 2013 - 09:39pm
TheRyan · Climber · Colorado Springs, CO
I have used this rope for trad, sport, and ice/mixed. It is at the end of it's life, but has little fraying, and has been a great rope for the time I've had it. Nice hand, relatively light, and ideal for onsight/redpoints.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 19, 2010 - 09:33am
mlshaf25 · Climber · Highland Park, IL
This was my second Petzl rope and I am down right fed up with them. last year I purchased the Zephyr and I used for a whole year logging countless pitches of trad, sport and ice climbing on it. I took very little falls on the rope and the one day the sheath began to bundle up at the base of my rappel device on a long rappel. A few weeks later the rope finally went. A core shot appeared directly in the middle of the rope and it seemed as though the sheath essentially dissolved. The first time I used this rope I climbed a long tad route this fall. On the rappel, that bunching of the sheath occurred again just after the first rappel. Just yesterday I was out climbing ice with my girlfriend when I was ready to rappel off the top of the cliff when I realized my nomad had a HUGE core shot. I had used this rope twice before. Literally two times and the rope was already done. I hadn't even climbed ice on this rope so there was no chance I had punctured it with an axe or crampon. I am so furious as I am only a college student and I can't afford a brand new rope! Fortunately Petzl has told me to send in the rope and maybe my review will change if they help me out and say it was a defect and send me a new one. Stay tuned…

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 14, 2010 - 07:07pm
Winter · Climber
I bought the 70 m version of this rope earlier this year and have climbed extensively on it over the last 10-12 months. I have easily logged 120-150 pitches on all kinds of terrain from single pitch crag routes to 20+ pitch sport routes to desert towers.

Overall, I loved the rope. It had a supple feel right out of the bag, the ready-to-climb coil is the real deal, and the rope stood up to a serious beating without showing many signs of wear.

The one serious drawback is that the middle mark is too light, and once the rope gets some serious use it is VERY difficult to find. My version of the rope is green, and once it got dirty it was virtually impossible when setting up a quick rap to eyeball the middle mark, which was too close in color to the rest of the rope. I consider this to be a pretty serious drawback and would greatly prefer a bi-pattern rope - or at least a brighter color - for this reason.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Credit: Petzl
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