Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: $235 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros: Climb Ready Coil, lightweight, supple
Cons: not the most versatile
Best Uses: Hard sport climbs, multi-pitch and alpine climbs
If you are looking for a lightweight, easy to handle rope for some all day endeavors, the 9.4mm Petzl Fuse, similar to the Bluewater Dominator, is perfect. It locks off well in a reverso, and less weight makes a big difference when going for a send. If you need a beefier rope for aiding or for working a project, the Sterling Marathon Pro is great. If you are looking for an inexpensive rope the Mammut Tusk and the Maxim Equinox are great options to consider. If you want something even skinnier, check out the Mammut Revelation.
How does this compare to other ropes? See The Best Climbing Rope Review
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
9.4 Skinny Sending Rope
Our testers took to calling this rope the "sending rope" because it is so light we could bring it on anything, from hard sport sends to long alpine climbs. It only weighs 56 g/m, but it doesn't skimp any strength or durability; the rope held up well to a lot of use.
It is soft, supple and easy to handle and the dry coating keeps it fresher for longer.
The thin diameter makes it a little less versatile because the Fuse would not be ideal for aiding or extended top-roping sessions. Both of these activities put a lot of wear on a rope, and a workhorse rope like the Sterling Evolution Velocity would be a better choice. Other climbers have complained that Petzl ropes don't last very long, however we have not noticed this rope falling apart or coming undone, which did happen on a few other ropes in this review.
Options and Other Versions
The Petzl ropes come with a Duratec Dry coating and are available in 60 and 70 meter lengths.
Of all the ropes out there, Petzl ropes come in the best coil. I was skeptical about their professed "Climb Ready Coil," but I opened this rope up, and used it as a trail rope for a long route without even flaking it first, and there were no knots, kinks, or tangles. The Sterling Marathon Pro, the Bluewater Lightning Pro, and especially the Beal Edlinger II, took some time to carefully unwind, and were still pretty kinky for the first day of use, however the Petzl Fuse and the Petzl Nomad were surprisingly smooth to handle right away.
This rope is best used for hard redpoints or long routes where weight matters. We loved it on multi-pitch climbs because the thin diameter still locked off well in a reverso, and our testers hardly noticed the weight of the rope.
Both Petzl ropes in this review are the same price, regardless of diameter. $235 is a lot of money, but also a pretty average price for a nice rope, so if the Fuse is exactly what you are looking for, it would be worth forking over the money.
— McKenzie Long
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: June 4, 2013
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