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Petzl Fuse Review

   

Climbing Ropes (Dynamic)

  • Currently 3.8/5
Overall avg rating 3.8 of 5 based on 6 reviews. Most recent review: August 17, 2012
Street Price:   Varies from $188 - $235 | Compare prices at 4 resellers
Pros:  Climb Ready Coil, lightweight, supple
Cons:  Not the best with a gri-gri, not the most versatile
Best Uses:  Hard sport climbs, multi-pitch and alpine climbs
User Rating:     
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  • 5
 (3.7 of 5) based on 5 reviews
Recommendations:  75% of reviewers (3/4) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Petzl
Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ November 1, 2010  
Overview
If you are looking for a lightweight (56 g/m,) easy to handle rope for some all day endeavors, the 9.4mm Petzl Fuse, similar to the Bluewater Dominator, is perfect. It may not lock as well in a gri-gri as fatter ropes, but it does lock off well in a reverso and having less weight makes a big difference when going for a send. If you need a beefier rope for aiding or for using with a gri-gri at the crag, the Sterling Marathon Pro is great. If you are looking for an inexpensive rope the Mammut Tusk and the Maxim Equinox are great options to consider. If you want something even skinnier, check out the Mammut Revelation.

How does this compare to other ropes? See The Best Climbing Rope Review

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
Of all the ropes out there, Petzl ropes come in the best coil. I was skeptical about their professed “Climb Ready Coil,” but I opened this rope up, and used it as a trail rope for a long route without even flaking it first, and there were no knots, kinks, or tangles. The Sterling Marathon Pro, the Bluewater Lightning Pro, and especially the Beal Edlinger II, took some time to carefully unwind, and were still pretty kinky for the first day of use, however the Petzl Fuse and the Petzl Nomad were surprisingly smooth to handle right away.

My partner and I took to calling this rope the “sending rope” because it is so light we could bring it on anything. It is soft, supple and easy to handle and the dry coating keeps it fresher for longer. Even though this is the skinny sending rope, I didn't feel like I was trading any strength or durability and the rope held up really well to a lot of use.

Dislikes
The downside to having a rope this thin is that it does not work very well in a gri-gri, which is nice to use when cragging. The thin diameter makes it a little less versatile because the Fuse would not be ideal for aiding or extended top-roping sessions.

I have had other climbers complain to me that Petzl ropes don't last very long, however I have not noticed this rope falling apart or coming undone, and I have noticed that on a few other ropes in this review.

Best Application
This rope is best used for hard redpoints or long routes where weight matters. I loved it on multi-pitch climbs because the thin diameter still locked off well in a reverso, and I hardly noticed the weight of the rope.

Value
Both Petzl ropes in this review are the same price, regardless of diameter. $225 is a lot of money, but also a pretty average price for a nice rope, so if the Fuse is exactly what you are looking for, it would be worth forking over the money.

McKenzie Long

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: August 17, 2012
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.7)

75% of 4 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 75%  (3)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 5 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Aug 17, 2012 - 07:08am
samwell121 · Climber · Austin
It's light fast and strong. Good braking friction for it's size too, brakes better than a 9.8 I have. Also, fuse means to join.. not to break..

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Oct 10, 2011 - 06:59am
 
Tony Bird · Climber · Northridge, CA
read the instructions on your grigri: for 10-11 mm ropes.
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   Dec 12, 2010 - 06:34pm
Nkane · Climber · San Francisco, USA
This is a good rope - I got it on Steep and Cheap in the 70m length, which made it good for both sport climbing and alpine routes where you only want to bring 1 rope but you want to link lots of pitches.

However I used it as my primary rope for all kinds of stuff - projecting, TRing, etc, and it only lasted a year before i started to get uncomfortable with its fuzziness.

It's a good rope, but be more careful with it than I was - it's not that durable.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Oct 9, 2011 - 11:13am
Rick Picar · Climber · San Jose CA
The Petzl Fuse is one of the best handling light weight ropes I have ever used. It was very smooth on the belay device and on the rock. I climbed Fairview dome regular route in Tuolemne with the Fuse and it performed very well. I have a 70 meter and it's great for alpine routes.
I definitely recommend this rope.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
Nov 5, 2010 - 09:17am
 
sac · Climber · Sun Coast B.C.
uuuuuuummm… I gotta say…

Is this a joke??

Isn't a "fuse " designed to break?
Isn't a "fuse" the weakest link in the system?


I know, it's only a name… but…

By the name alone, I would never use this rope.

Jes sayin'

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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Credit: Petzl
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Related Best-in-Class Review
The Best Rock Climbing Rope

The Best Rock Climbing Rope

We got together 13 of the top climbing ropes and after lots of unwinding and flaking, put them to the test in a giant summer of climbing on ropes for comparison.
Helpful Buying Tips
Climbing Rope Buying Advice - Click for details
 Climbing Rope Buying Advice

by McKenzie Long
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