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Petzl Fuse Review

   

Climbing Ropes (Dynamic)

  • Currently 3.8/5
Overall avg rating 3.8 of 5 based on 6 reviews. Most recent review: June 4, 2013
Street Price:   Varies from $165 - $270 | Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Climb Ready Coil, lightweight, supple
Cons:  not the most versatile
Best Uses:  Hard sport climbs, multi-pitch and alpine climbs
User Rating:     
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 (3.7 of 5) based on 5 reviews
Recommendations:  75% of reviewers (3/4) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Petzl
Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ June 4, 2013  
Overview
If you are looking for a lightweight, easy to handle rope for some all day endeavors, the 9.4mm Petzl Fuse, similar to the Bluewater Dominator, is perfect. It locks off well in a reverso, and less weight makes a big difference when going for a send. If you need a beefier rope for aiding or for working a project, the Sterling Marathon Pro is great. If you are looking for an inexpensive rope the Mammut Tusk and the Maxim Equinox are great options to consider. If you want something even skinnier, check out the Mammut Revelation.

How does this compare to other ropes? See The Best Climbing Rope Review

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Performance Comparison
Click to enlarge
Luke Lydiard gets his slab on with the Petzl Fuse, climbing Truck and Drive in Tuolumne Meadows. We started calling this rope the "Sending Rope" because it was so light and skinny and easy to bring on multi-pich climbs where we wanted to save weight.
Credit: McKenzie Long


9.4 Skinny Sending Rope

Weight
Our testers took to calling this rope the "sending rope" because it is so light we could bring it on anything, from hard sport sends to long alpine climbs. It only weighs 56 g/m, but it doesn't skimp any strength or durability; the rope held up well to a lot of use.

Handling
It is soft, supple and easy to handle and the dry coating keeps it fresher for longer.

Durability
The thin diameter makes it a little less versatile because the Fuse would not be ideal for aiding or extended top-roping sessions. Both of these activities put a lot of wear on a rope, and a workhorse rope like the Sterling Evolution Velocity would be a better choice. Other climbers have complained that Petzl ropes don't last very long, however we have not noticed this rope falling apart or coming undone, which did happen on a few other ropes in this review.

Options and Other Versions
The Petzl ropes come with a Duratec Dry coating and are available in 60 and 70 meter lengths.

Of all the ropes out there, Petzl ropes come in the best coil. I was skeptical about their professed "Climb Ready Coil," but I opened this rope up, and used it as a trail rope for a long route without even flaking it first, and there were no knots, kinks, or tangles. The Sterling Marathon Pro, the Bluewater Lightning Pro, and especially the Beal Edlinger II, took some time to carefully unwind, and were still pretty kinky for the first day of use, however the Petzl Fuse and the Petzl Nomad were surprisingly smooth to handle right away.

Best Application
This rope is best used for hard redpoints or long routes where weight matters. We loved it on multi-pitch climbs because the thin diameter still locked off well in a reverso, and our testers hardly noticed the weight of the rope.

Value
Both Petzl ropes in this review are the same price, regardless of diameter. $235 is a lot of money, but also a pretty average price for a nice rope, so if the Fuse is exactly what you are looking for, it would be worth forking over the money.

McKenzie Long

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: June 4, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.7)

75% of 4 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 75%  (3)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 5 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Aug 17, 2012 - 10:08am
samwell121 · Climber · Austin
It's light fast and strong. Good braking friction for it's size too, brakes better than a 9.8 I have. Also, fuse means to join.. not to break..

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Oct 10, 2011 - 09:59am
 
Tony Bird · Climber · Northridge, CA
read the instructions on your grigri: for 10-11 mm ropes.
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   Dec 12, 2010 - 09:34pm
Nkane · Climber · San Francisco, USA
This is a good rope - I got it on Steep and Cheap in the 70m length, which made it good for both sport climbing and alpine routes where you only want to bring 1 rope but you want to link lots of pitches.

However I used it as my primary rope for all kinds of stuff - projecting, TRing, etc, and it only lasted a year before i started to get uncomfortable with its fuzziness.

It's a good rope, but be more careful with it than I was - it's not that durable.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Oct 9, 2011 - 02:13pm
Rick Picar · Climber · San Jose CA
The Petzl Fuse is one of the best handling light weight ropes I have ever used. It was very smooth on the belay device and on the rock. I climbed Fairview dome regular route in Tuolemne with the Fuse and it performed very well. I have a 70 meter and it's great for alpine routes.
I definitely recommend this rope.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
Nov 5, 2010 - 12:17pm
 
sac · Climber · Sun Coast B.C.
uuuuuuummm… I gotta say…

Is this a joke??

Isn't a "fuse " designed to break?
Isn't a "fuse" the weakest link in the system?


I know, it's only a name… but…

By the name alone, I would never use this rope.

Jes sayin'

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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Credit: Petzl
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The Best Rock Climbing Rope

After a memorable amount of unwinding and flaking, we put the top dynamic climbing ropes to the test by climbing as much as possible in many different disciplines.
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