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Mammut Revelation Review

   
Top Pick Award

Climbing Ropes (Dynamic)

  • Currently 5.0/5
Overall avg rating 5.0 of 5 based on 3 reviews. Most recent review: November 2, 2010
Street Price:   Varies from $170 - $240 | Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Lightweight for a long rope, durable especially for being so thin, Teflon coating.
Cons:  Not the best for an all-around rope.
Best Uses:  Sport climbing, alpine climbing.
User Rating:     
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 (5.0 of 5) based on 2 reviews
Manufacturer:   Mammut
Review by: McKenzie Long ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ October 20, 2010  
Overview
If you are primarily going to use your climbing rope for sport climbing, or long alpine routes this rope is the rope I would buy. It is skinny (9.2mm,) lightweight (55 g/m,) yet durable. Its Teflon coating makes it smooth and easy to handle and the dry coating keeps it from taking on water in the event you get caught in a storm. I would recommend getting this rope in a 70-meter length because it is so lightweight that you won't even notice the extra ten meters, and it allows you to access many more climbs. If you are looking for an inexpensive rope, the BlueWater Pulse and the Maxim Equinox are good deals. If you are looking for something thicker and more versatile, the Sterling Marathon Pro or the BlueWater Lightning Pro are great all-around ropes. Another rope with the same Teflon coating, but a slightly thicker diameter is the Mammut Infinity.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
I love this rope and have used it extensively, from sport climbs to ice climbs to trad climbs. Even when running it over rough granite, it holds up really well. The Teflon coating gives it really great glide and handling and also makes the rope tougher and longer lasting.

I was worried at first that this rope would not work in a GriGri since they are specified for ropes between 10-11mm. (The GriGri 2, for 8.9-11 mm ropes is coming in 2011!) However, with careful attention, I have been caught and have myself caught many a fall on this 9.2 mm rope with a GriGri (though this is not recommended.) I find that it glides and locks well in a GriGri, Reverso, or ATC.

This is a great rope to get in a 70-meter length because it is so skinny and lightweight. I can carry it on long approaches and not even feel like I am carrying a 70-meter. It is extra length for no extra weight.


Dislikes
While this rope is very well suited to sport climbing or cragging, I wouldn't say it is the perfect all-around rope since it seems more limited in application. This rope would not be the one I would pick for aiding or jugging, because a thicker rope would be more desirable in those situations, something like the Sterling Marathon Pro. Though I would usually prefer a 60-meter on multi-pitch climbs, this rope is so light it is great to bring on long climbs as well.

After a lot of use, the ends on this rope shredded a little, and I had to trim the ends, but I find that to be the case on just about any rope. Overall I was impressed with the durability of this rope, especially for being a 9.2mm.

Since this is the skinniest rope in the review, it is rated to hold less UIAA falls than any of the other ropes (5-6.) However, I feel that this does not effect the way I use the rope or the confidence I have in it.

Best Application
The Mammut Revelation is perfect for sport climbing. These days, routes are getting longer and longer, and where the standard used to be a 60 meter rope, (and before that 50-meter) many places now are bolted with the assumption you have a 70-meter rope. This rope accommodates that length while staying lightweight. Since the trend in sport climbing is keeping everything as lightweight as possible, having a skinny yet durable and longer rope is ideal. This rope is also great on alpine climbs. Being the skinniest rope in this review, and weighing only 55 g/m, it is the ultimate "light and fast" rope.

Value
This rope is on the expensive end of the scale, however for being a dry-coated, Teflon-coated, 70 m rope, I'd say that is perfectly acceptable. I also feel that this rope and Mammut ropes in general last longer than the Petzl or the Beal ropes, so for the little bit of extra money, you are getting more use out of your rope.

McKenzie Long

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: November 2, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (5.0)

100% of 1 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 100%  (2)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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Nov 2, 2010 - 10:13am
 
Cpt0bvi0u5 · Climber · Merced CA
I think rope reviews should include grams per meter on ropes so consumers can find what rope weight best suits their needs.
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   Sep 30, 2010 - 11:07pm
Hummerchine · Climber · East Wenatchee, WA
This is just a wonderful rope; in fact, for all climbing outside of big walls, I think it is the best rope on the market (in bi-pattern). And this comes from a notorious gear slut (me). I've used the best of the competition, here are my thoughts:

Mammut Serentiy: lightest single rope on the market; the Revelation is the next lightest made by Mammut. I liked the Serenity, but it wears out extremely fast, does not come in bi-pattern, and does seem too thin to belay with confidence. And I should point out I am also a weight freak.

Edelwiess Performance/Beal Joker. I group these together because the specs on these two ropes are identical. They are also the second lightest ropes on the market, but they have different handling properties. I like them both very much, have only had one Joker but have burned through a few Performance ropes. I actually love them, they hold up fairly well but still seem a bit skinny to belay with and do not come in bi-pattern. Actually, it appears that the Joker does come that way, but I have yet to find any way to obtain one in the USA.

The Revelation hits the sweet spot.

Edelwiess Laser: incredibly sweet rope and a bargain to boot. Handles fantastic, as do all of the above ropes outside the Serenity. Just a bit heavy for my taste; if you want something burlier, don't hesitate and buy the bi-pattern version of this.

Hope this helps!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Mammut Revelation
Mammut Revelation
Credit: mammut.ch/
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by McKenzie Long
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