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Hands-on Gear Review
Cons: Heavy, not as useful in flaring cracks
Best Uses: Traditional free climbs
Advanced Base Camp (ABC) Huevos are a great option for climbers looking for a good price on dependable nuts. Huevos are identical to Omega Pacific Wedgies Omega Pacific makes them for ABC. They are identical size-to-size and they also share the same color scheme for their anodized heads. Like Wedgies, Huevos are closely similar to Black Diamond Stoppers. Their classic curved design offers good all-around performance when fitting into bottlenecks and parallel cracks. However, their performance is rather average in flares and pin scars. Two features that all climbers and especially beginners will enjoy are Huevos' simple design that makes for easier placement assessment, and the fact that they are relatively easy to remove. Among all the nuts we reviewed, Huevos are the best priced either when sold individually or as a set.
Huevos are slightly better priced as a set than Omega Pacific Wedgies, although a Wedgies full set for $95 comes with a Caranut tool ($2 savings on the nut tool). Huevos get OutdoorGearLab's Best Buy award because they are sightly easier to clean than BD Stoppers and are $30 less expensive. For climbers on a tight budget, these are good, dependable nuts that fit the more typical bottleneck cracks very well. They are dependable nuts that we loved in the smaller sizes and thought were average in middle to larger sizes.
RELATED: Our complete review of nuts and stoppers
OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
ABC Huevos have more rounded edges than many other models we tested, making them easier to clean. They were slightly easier to remove than BD stoppers and much easier than DMM Wallnuts or Metolius Curve Nuts. ABC offers one of the biggest size ranges, providing an excellent amount of overlap that avoids "in between" placements. Bright anodized color coding of Huevos' heads makes looking for the next size quick and easy. In parallel cracks, Huevos performed about the same as Wild Country Rocks on a Wire and not quite as well as DMM Wallnuts. Huevos were just above average for durability. Their largest sizes were less prone to sliding up and down the cable, making them easier to adjust while in cracks than many other models we tested. We really liked their smaller nuts, ranking them alongside BD Stoppers and above DMM Wallnuts. The smaller Wedgies (#1 to #5) were very useful, especially in that some other companies don't even produce nuts this small.
ABC Huevos don't seem to fit in as wide a range of cracks as DMM Alloy Offsets, Wallnuts or Metolius Curve Nuts. In the middle and larger sizes (above size #5 or #6) they were not as versatile as others and preformed at about average. However, from size #5 to #6 and below we loved them. Huveos, along with Omega Pacific Wedgies, were among the heavier nuts in the review. Only Frost Works Sentinel nuts were heavier.
Huevos are excellent for people aiming to start a set of nuts without spending too much money. Strong points are their large continuous size run, durability and decent placement versatility. We really liked the smaller sizes. finding the versatility in the bigger sizes rather average. As nearly the heaviest nuts in the review, they are a poor choice for alpine climbers or anybody looking to save a few ounces.
ABC Huevos are a good nut at the best price in this review. They performed about the same as BD Stoppers and the same as Omega Pacific Wedgies. They also preformed as well as more expensive nuts with regard to durability, sizes available and size overlap.
— Ian Nicholson
OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: December 12, 2009
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