Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: $37 | Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros: Durable, reinforced, good fit, bomber clip in loop
Best Uses: big wall climbing, aid climbing, belaying
Manufacturer: Metolius Climbing
The Metolius Climbing Glove is among the better fingerless climbing gloves I have used and probably the most popular climbing glove in Yosemite. They come cut at just the right length, are reinforced in all the right spots, and have a burly clip-in loop so you can confidently clip them to the side of your harness.
For a little while, I leaned toward the PMI Fingerless Glove because of the added dexterity of goat skin. But the PMI turned out to wear out too fast. If you want a more burly glove for rappelling or climbing, this is it. If you are on a budget and have extra time, you might consider finding some cheap $10 full length leather gloves and cutting off the fingertips. However, if you go that route remember that the end product will probably not be as durable or as dexterous as these or other brand name fingerless gloves. The only glove that scored higher is the Black Diamond Stone Glove which has better dexterity but is more expensive and not quite as durable.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
It is hard to imagine more durable 3/4 cut climbing gloves for big wall climbing or for use as a rappel glove. These are reinforced in all the right spots. Most importantly, they have a snug fit around the fingers, which is hard to find in leather gloves and very hard to duplicate if you make your own homemade fingerless climbing glove. Also, with a homemade cut you will have duct tape at the end of the fingers that will need to be maintained. Not so with these gloves. The ends of the fingers have clean reinforced stitching that keeps them from blowing open too quickly. These also have more of of the palm reinforced than most other fingerless gloves. The reinforced area extends all the way to much of the thumb which gives more protection from climbing rope wear. Finally, of all the climbing gloves sold, these have the most trips up El Capitan. So the fact they are so widely used and loved is a big plus. These are also among the easiest gloves to find both on the web in a climbing glove sale and at your local store.
Because they are made entirely of cowhide, these gloves take a while to break in. At first they don't have the best dexterity and then they soften up. On the other hand, the PMI Fingerless Glove are soft right away and offer better dexterity. It's a tradeoffdo you want the better dexterity of goat skin with PMI or more durability with Metolius?
This climbing glove excels at big wall climbing especially aid leads. You can do some easy free moves with them on, but for harder free climbing you will want to take them off. They work as a belay glove. But if I were just belaying, I would get a full length glove.
These are in the middle of the value range. They costs about as much other fingerless gloves. Their life span is above average. You can always make a homemad fingerless climbing glove but it won't have the same durability or fit around the fingers.
Metolius Iron Hand Glove and the full fingered Metolius Belay Glove
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: March 18, 2014
Credit: Metolius website
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