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Metolius Climbing Glove Review

   
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  • Currently 4.0/5
Overall avg rating 4.0 of 5 based on 5 reviews. Most recent review: March 18, 2014
Street Price:   $37 | Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Durable, reinforced, good fit, bomber clip in loop
Cons:  Expensive
Best Uses:  big wall climbing, aid climbing, belaying
User Rating:     
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  • 5
 (4.0 of 5) based on 4 reviews
Recommendations:  67% of reviewers (2/3) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Metolius Climbing
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ March 18, 2014  
Overview
The Metolius Climbing Glove is among the better fingerless climbing gloves I have used and probably the most popular climbing glove in Yosemite. They come cut at just the right length, are reinforced in all the right spots, and have a burly clip-in loop so you can confidently clip them to the side of your harness.

For a little while, I leaned toward the PMI Fingerless Glove because of the added dexterity of goat skin. But the PMI turned out to wear out too fast. If you want a more burly glove for rappelling or climbing, this is it. If you are on a budget and have extra time, you might consider finding some cheap $10 full length leather gloves and cutting off the fingertips. However, if you go that route remember that the end product will probably not be as durable or as dexterous as these or other brand name fingerless gloves. The only glove that scored higher is the Black Diamond Stone Glove which has better dexterity but is more expensive and not quite as durable.

View our complete Climbing Glove Review to see how this product compared to
others.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
It is hard to imagine more durable 3/4 cut climbing gloves for big wall climbing or for use as a rappel glove. These are reinforced in all the right spots. Most importantly, they have a snug fit around the fingers, which is hard to find in leather gloves and very hard to duplicate if you make your own homemade fingerless climbing glove. Also, with a homemade cut you will have duct tape at the end of the fingers that will need to be maintained. Not so with these gloves. The ends of the fingers have clean reinforced stitching that keeps them from blowing open too quickly. These also have more of of the palm reinforced than most other fingerless gloves. The reinforced area extends all the way to much of the thumb which gives more protection from climbing rope wear. Finally, of all the climbing gloves sold, these have the most trips up El Capitan. So the fact they are so widely used and loved is a big plus. These are also among the easiest gloves to find both on the web in a climbing glove sale and at your local store.

Dislikes
Because they are made entirely of cowhide, these gloves take a while to break in. At first they don't have the best dexterity and then they soften up. On the other hand, the PMI Fingerless Glove are soft right away and offer better dexterity. It's a tradeoffdo you want the better dexterity of goat skin with PMI or more durability with Metolius?

Best Application
This climbing glove excels at big wall climbing especially aid leads. You can do some easy free moves with them on, but for harder free climbing you will want to take them off. They work as a belay glove. But if I were just belaying, I would get a full length glove.

Value
These are in the middle of the value range. They costs about as much other fingerless gloves. Their life span is above average. You can always make a homemad fingerless climbing glove but it won't have the same durability or fit around the fingers.

Other Versions
Metolius Iron Hand Glove and the full fingered Metolius Belay Glove

Chris McNamara

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Where to Buy?

Seller Price  Shipping Cost Visit
MooseJaw $36.95
MountainGear $36.95
Oregon Mountain Community $36.95

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: March 18, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 5
 (4.0)

67% of 3 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (4)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 4 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Jul 8, 2011 - 10:47pm
WML · Climber · Biggest Little City, NV
After somehow losing one of my homemade gloves in transit to the Valley, I found myself getting ready to get on a wall and without gloves.

To the Mountain Shop I went, and begrudgingly purchased these.

They are gloves, they do what they are supposed to do and do it very well. Are they worth the price? Not so sure, but I'm a cheap bastard so who knows. Don't lose your homemade gloves en route… :(

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Apr 25, 2011 - 03:30pm
 
Matt Thomsen · Climber · Places
My pair want to sh#t after the first wall. The stitching tore out. I had used the iron hand for the last three years and six walls and are pretty worked, but still work. I would go with the iron hand again.
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   Apr 24, 2011 - 09:41pm
spidey · Climber · Berkeley CA
I've had a pair of these for 10 years and 6-8 moderate yosemite walls, and they are still going strong - no sign of falling apart or wearing out anytime soon. They do a great job of protecting your hands and the fingers are long enough to cover the second knuckle, which tends to take a lot of abuse on walls especially when you are new to aiding and jugging. The downside is that they are a bit stiff and do take some breaking in, and you lose some dexterity. They are great for aiding, a bit clumsy for free moves, but they seem to be a huge step above homemade gloves. For me they were a great value and I would definitely buy them again.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 9, 2010 - 10:33pm
le_bruce · Climber · Oakland, CA
I've been up three walls in mine, still in good not great shape, and the price per pitch index is looking to be pretty sweet over the life of the gloves. After +/- 70 pitches, no stitching has come loose, no holes have formed.

But next time I'll just make my own out of cheap leather gloves - and this is the only reason I wouldn't recommend these. If cash is no concern, these won't disappoint.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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Metolius Climbing Glove
Metolius Climbing Glove
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