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Metolius Climbing Glove Review


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Top Pick Award
Price:   $37 List | Sale $31.95 online - 14% Off  —  Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Durable, reinforced, good fit, bomber clip in loop
Cons:  Expensive
Editors' Rating:     
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Manufacturer:   Metolius Climbing

Overview

The Metolius Climbing Glove is among the better fingerless climbing gloves I have used and probably the most popular climbing glove in Yosemite. They come cut at just the right length, are reinforced in all the right spots, and have a burly clip-in loop so you can confidently clip them to the side of your harness.

If you want a more burly glove for rappelling or climbing, this is it. If you are on a budget and have extra time, you might consider finding some cheap $10 full length leather gloves and cutting off the fingertips. However, if you go that route remember that the end product will probably not be as durable or as dexterous as these or other brand name fingerless gloves. The only glove that scored higher is the Black Diamond Stone Glove which has better dexterity but is more expensive and not quite as durable.

View our complete Climbing Glove Review to see how this product compared to
others.


RELATED: Our complete review of belay & rappel gloves

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Analysis and Hands-on Test Findings

Review by:
Chris McNamara
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
OutdoorGearLab

Last Updated:
Tuesday
July 14, 2015

Likes


It is hard to imagine more durable 3/4 cut climbing gloves for big wall climbing or for use as a rappel glove. These are reinforced in all the right spots. Most importantly, they have a snug fit around the fingers, which is hard to find in leather gloves and very hard to duplicate if you make your own homemade fingerless climbing glove. Also, with a homemade cut you will have duct tape at the end of the fingers that will need to be maintained. Not so with these gloves. The ends of the fingers have clean reinforced stitching that keeps them from blowing open too quickly. These also have more of of the palm reinforced than most other fingerless gloves. The reinforced area extends all the way to much of the thumb which gives more protection from climbing rope wear. Finally, of all the climbing gloves sold, these have the most trips up El Capitan. So the fact they are so widely used and loved is a big plus. These are also among the easiest gloves to find both on the web in a climbing glove sale and at your local store.

Dislikes


Because they are made entirely of cowhide, these gloves take a while to break in. At first they don't have the best dexterity and then they soften up.

Best Application


This climbing glove excels at big wall climbing especially aid leads. You can do some easy free moves with them on, but for harder free climbing you will want to take them off. They work as a belay glove. But if I were just belaying, I would get a full length glove.

Value


These are in the middle of the value range. They costs about as much other fingerless gloves. Their life span is above average. You can always make a homemad fingerless climbing glove but it won't have the same durability or fit around the fingers.

Other Versions


The full fingered Metolius Belay Glove
Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: November 11, 2016
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (3.3)

50% of 4 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 80%  (4)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 20%  (1)
Sort 5 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Nov 11, 2016 - 09:29pm
Hi guys,

This month I buy the Metolius climbing gloves 3/4 from www.gearexpress.com great store, but later when i receive the gloves i found that the quality is not the same.

I found this review in Amazon:

"Quality way down since moving from China production to Pakistan production.
ByB. Linsonon June 9, 2015
Verified Purchase
I don't know why but Metolius must has recently changed from their China production to Pakistan production and the quality has gone WAY down. I bought a pair of these a about three years ago and recently lost one of the gloves. I figured since the pair I had were so good I could not go wrong buting another pair. Boy was I wrong. The new Pakistan produced glove is horrably substandared compared to the China produce one. The leather is much thinner and cheaper. The wrist pull is only sewn once where the older China version is double sewn. They feel very cheap compared to the older China gloves. China gloves the seams are on the outside which is much more comfortable. I won't buy another pair of these and I would not recommend them to my friends."

My new gloves say "Made in Pakistan" and is a garbage :-(

Please update the review with this new information.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jul 9, 2011 - 01:47am
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
After somehow losing one of my homemade gloves in transit to the Valley, I found myself getting ready to get on a wall and without gloves.

To the Mountain Shop I went, and begrudgingly purchased these.

They are gloves, they do what they are supposed to do and do it very well. Are they worth the price? Not so sure, but I'm a cheap bastard so who knows. Don't lose your homemade gloves en route… :(

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Apr 25, 2011 - 06:30pm
 
Matt Thomsen · Climber · Places
My pair want to sh#t after the first wall. The stitching tore out. I had used the iron hand for the last three years and six walls and are pretty worked, but still work. I would go with the iron hand again.
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   Apr 25, 2011 - 12:41am
spidey · Climber · Berkeley CA
I've had a pair of these for 10 years and 6-8 moderate yosemite walls, and they are still going strong - no sign of falling apart or wearing out anytime soon. They do a great job of protecting your hands and the fingers are long enough to cover the second knuckle, which tends to take a lot of abuse on walls especially when you are new to aiding and jugging. The downside is that they are a bit stiff and do take some breaking in, and you lose some dexterity. They are great for aiding, a bit clumsy for free moves, but they seem to be a huge step above homemade gloves. For me they were a great value and I would definitely buy them again.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 10, 2010 - 01:33am
le_bruce · Climber · Oakland, CA
I've been up three walls in mine, still in good not great shape, and the price per pitch index is looking to be pretty sweet over the life of the gloves. After +/- 70 pitches, no stitching has come loose, no holes have formed.

But next time I'll just make my own out of cheap leather gloves - and this is the only reason I wouldn't recommend these. If cash is no concern, these won't disappoint.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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