The Best Small Climbing Daypack Review

These seven packs ranged in size from 12 liters (Black Diamond BBEE) to 20 liters (Cilo Gear Worksack). We believe that this size range is the best for single-day multi-pitch climbing. They ranged in price from $30 (REI Flash 18) to $75 (Cilo Gear Worksack).

We rated these packs in six different categories: weight, durability, packed size, climbing utility, versatility, and comfort. Below is a rundown of the results.


Weight
The most cut and dry of the categories. When you’re fighting the good fight against gravity, it’s important to shave ounces wherever possible. The REI Flash 18 got top marks for being the lightest pack reviewed (10 oz), followed by the Cilo Gear 20L Worksack (11.6 oz). On the other side of the spectrum the Mountain Hardwear Crimper weighed a whopping 24 oz.

Durability
An evaluation of general sturdiness. This includes the type and quality of materials used in the construction and our assessment of the pack’s ability to withstand repeated abuse. Factors that influenced a pack’s score were whether high-impact areas were reinforced and whether a certain aspect of the pack was less durable than the pack as a whole (mesh side pockets, for example, brought a pack’s score down). A big blow to a pack’s score came when a certain part of the pack was just inherently weak and prone to failure (the sternum strap on the Black Diamond BBEE and the Mountain Hardwear Crimper, for example).


Packed Size
A scoring of each pack when rolled or stuffed as small as possible. On longer expedition-style trips it can be very useful to have a pack of this size for day trips and/or summit attempts. The REI Flash 18 is the most compressible and could easily be stored in the bottom of a larger pack, as could the Cilo Gear 20L Worksack (just slightly less compact). Packs with back padding don’t compress as small as those without padding and the Mountain Hardwear Crimper, with its extra-stiff padding, can hardly be packed down at all.

Climbing Utility
How well the pack worked on the approach and during a climb. Scores were a balance of how specific features made your multi-pitch life easier and how well the pack stayed out of your way as you make that last hard move before the anchors. We rated the Petzl Bug the highest since it is loaded with features and still climbs well. The Cilo Gear 20L Worksack and the Black Diamond Bullet were close behind, and we rated them the same. Neither pack can compare to the Bug’s multitude of handy features, but you also feel them less as you climb. The Mountain Hardwear Crimper again rated the lowest in this category, with neither the features nor the design to match up.


Versatility
How well the daypack performed off the rock. This was a combination of two factors: how much its climbing-specific features limited it during day-to-day use, and how well its size, volume, and looks fit into life away from the crag. The REI Flash 18 took top marks; urban life is where this pack really shines. The Petzl Bug got the lowest rating because its rock-ready features are cumbersome and unnecessary for anything else.

Comfort
Each pack was rated while loaded down with the minimum equipment you’d carry on a multi-pitch climb: a pair of sneakers, a liter of water, a bar, and a light layer. We wore each pack around town and put our body into every possible rock climbing position we could imagine. Comfort to us meant how flush the loaded pack sat against the back and how well it moved with us. How well the weight was distributed also mattered, and how protected we were against a nut tool or cam poking you us the back was important, too. The Bug scored highest with its sensible and modest back padding. The BBEE was a close second, with its padding just over the spine. The Shot scored the lowest since its padding seemed to restrict the pack from conforming to our back.

The Bottom Line
Our Editors' Choice award goes to the Black Diamond Bullet, a trusty, no-frills, workhorse of a pack. While it is not the lightest, the toughest, or the most comfortable pack we tested, it is definitely the best all-around pack; it functions well both on and off the rock.


Our Best Buy award goes to the REI Flash 18, which impressed with its amazing versatility and its featherlight weight, not to mention its budget pricetag!

We recommend the Cilo Gear 20L Worksack for alpine climbers or for climbers who are pushing their absolute limits on lead and want the lightest fully-featured pack possible.

Finally, we recommend the Petzl Bug as the ideal follower’s pack. It’s loaded with climbing-specific features that make the approach and your time at belays easier without ruining the climbing experience for the follower.