Trango SuperFly Review

Likes
This is a great lightweight carabiner. It feels barely larger than the Black Diamond Oz for the same weight (28g). Compared to the old lightweight champion, the Black Diamond Neutrino, this biner feels much bigger but weighs 25 percent less (28 g vs. 36 g). This means it is one of the larger lightweight biners out there. It comes in non-wiregate models also, but they are much heavier. I am a big fan of the wiregate version ever since I had a non-wiregate biner break on a fall on El Capitan. My suspicion is the biner failed because "biner chatter" caused the gate to open right when the biner was loaded. This is much less likely on wire-gate biners because the gate has less mass. Also, as with all biners with the wire-gate design the gate is less likely to get frozen shut on alpine routes.

Dislikes
As with all biners with the wire-gate design the notch gets caught up on the bolt hanger when cleaning steep routes. At $9 it is a bit expensive.

Best Application
I use these biners for everything from sport climbing to big walls. They are basically the only biners on my rack other than the Black Diamond Oz, Metolius FS Mini and Wild Country Astro. The locking version of the SuperFly is called the Trango SuperFly Screwlock and is also awesome and is the lightest locking biner I know of.

Value
This is not one of the cheaper biners but is the same price as its main competitor the Black Diamond Oz. The Metolius FS Mini is $1.50 less if bought individually or $1.75 less if you buy a six-pack. The Wild Country Asto is $1 cheaper.