Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Comfortable size to grip, Snappy clipping action
Cons: Notch makes cleaning more difficult, No longer the lightest
Best Uses: Trad climbing, big wall climbing
When this biner first came out it was my favorite. I instantly bought a bunch, put them on my rack and was psyched. That was about 10 years ago. Now the Trango SuperFly has more competition from the Black Diamond Oz Carabiner, CAMP Photon Wire Straight Gate and many others. The SuperFly still stands out as one of my favorites, but it is no longer the runaway winner.
If you want the absolute lightest weight biner, go with CAMP Nano 23 Carabiner or absolute smallest biner the Metolius FS Mini (23 g). But overall, I prefer the Trango SuperFly because it's fairly light, but still easy to handle.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
The Trango SuperFly is a great mid-weight carabiner. Similar to competitors like the CAMP Photon Wire, it is full-sized and easy to handle, but won't weight you down like a bulkier product. It also has great snappy clipping action and is easy to clip! It comes in non-wiregate models also, but they are much heavier. I am a big fan of the wiregate version ever since I had a non-wiregate biner break on a fall on El Capitan. My suspicion is the biner failed because "gate flutter" caused the gate to open right when the biner was loaded. This is much less likely on wiregate biners because the gate has less mass. Also, as with all biners with the wiregate design the gate is less likely to get frozen shut on alpine routes.
As with many wiregate carabiners, the notch on the Trango SuperFly gets caught up on the bolt hanger when cleaning steep routes. With new advances among other manufacturers, this biner is no longer one of the lightest of the bunch.
I have used these biners for everything from sport climbing to big walls, though the nose notch is not ideal for steeper routes. They are basically the only biners on my rack other than the Black Diamond Oz, Metolius FS Mini, and Wild Country Astro. The locking version of the SuperFly is called the Trango SuperFly Screwlock and is also awesome.
The Trango SuperFly is not the cheapest biner but, it is relatively affordable. If you want to save a few bucks, be sure to consider our Best Buy award winner, the Mad Rock UltraLight Bent Gate, which weighs the same as the SuperFly, but is $2 cheaper.
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: March 1, 2010
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