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Petzl Spirit Review

   
Top Pick Award

Carabiner

  • Currently 4.7/5
Overall avg rating 4.7 of 5 based on 9 reviews. Most recent review: May 16, 2013
Street Price:   Varies from $7 - $10 | Compare prices at 9 resellers
Pros:  One of the best biners to clip and unclip, durable
Cons:  Expensive, heavy relative to other similar-sized carabiners
Best Uses:  Sport climbing or general cragging
User Rating:     
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 (5.0 of 5) based on 8 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (7/7) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Petzl
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ April 13, 2010  
Overview
The Petzl Spirit is maybe the oldest and most popular sport climbing carabiner. More than a decade ago, Petzl's innovative keylock design of the gate was the first to eliminate the problem of the notch getting snagged on the bolt hanger when cleaning a steep sport route. At the time it was revolutionary. Today there are many keylock carabiners out there but the Spirit remains one of the best.

The feel of this carabiner along with small details like the tiny gate grooves make this one of the best biners for clipping and unclipping bolts. Only the Wild Country Helium is better and that is simply because of the added strength of the wire gate. If you want a less expensive keylock carabiner, check out the Black Diamond Positron or for a much cheap keylock biner there is the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Straight. But none of those carabiners scored as high as the Spirit. In addition, the quickdraw that comes with the spirit, Petzl Spirit Express, is the most durable quickdraw we tested. So overall, if you sport climb a ton, its hard to beat this unless you want something lighter or less expensive.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
The Petzl Spirit is one of the most satisfying carabiners to clip. Part of this is due to the unique thumb grooves on the gate make which make it easier to open when reaching far for a bolt or piece of pro. Also, the spring is just the right tension: not too soft and not to hard. The gate gives just the right amount of resistance and snaps back responsively. And, of course, the keylock design keeps it from getting caught on the bolt hanger when cleaning steep routes (no notch to get caught as with almost all wiregate biners). The rope ran very smoothly through the Spirit(4 way tie for first). It also holds a number of knots well. In our figure eight holding test it took three figure eights and still had room for the gate to open. The gate is very durable and rarely gets sticky. Lastly, it is just one of the the most time tested biners around. The Petzl Spirit has proven effective on some of the hardest climbs in the world by some of the hardest climbers.

Dislikes
Other than being expensive, this biner is heavier than the similar biners with a wire-gate design (such as the Wild Country Helium)

Best Application
  • All around really good carabiner that excels at sport climbing. If you are buying this for a quickdraw, get the Petzl Spirit Express which comes with one straight gate Spirit, one bent gate Spirit, and one Express sling to join the two biners.

Value
This is one of the more expensive carabiners out there but it last forever. It has a great long-term value.

Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: May 16, 2013
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (5.0)

100% of 7 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
8 Total Ratings
5 star: 88%  (7)
4 star: 13%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 8 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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May 16, 2013 - 08:22pm
 
Splater · Climber · Grey Matter
Has been redesigned. More of an I-beam cross section. 39g each.
http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/non-locking-carabiners/spirit-0
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   Jul 9, 2011 - 08:47am
freerider · Climber
simply the best for sport. too heavy for alpine stuff, but that's not what it's made for. can't compare the handling to wire gate biners, this thing is awesome!!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jul 9, 2011 - 08:09am
Mtnmun · Climber · Top of the Mountain Mun
I use these with all of my cams. Easy off and on the harness with no snags.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jul 8, 2011 - 11:20pm
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Best racking biner for nuts, hexes, or anything on a wire ever. Followed my mentor's suggestion to pick these up and haven't looked back.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Sep 3, 2010 - 06:57pm
bmacd · Climber · 100% Canadian
love this biner a lot, so did a few "friends" I used to climb with as most of my spirits have mysteriously vanished

the 27 gram wire gate Spirit is Petzl Ange S - what's the word on it ?

Click to enlarge
wire gate petzl spirit
Credit: bmacd


Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 22, 2010 - 01:05pm
apogee · Climber
I've been using Spirits since they came out, and they are my favorite 'biner for draws, by far. As mentioned in the review, the gate tension is ideal- the sound and feel of the gate closing is quite reassuring. I would gladly trade a tad more weight for a 'biner that feels and performs durably, so I don't have any problem with it's weight. My only gripe about them is the recent color scheme- that red/gold color reminds me too much of BD junk. Still not enough to sway me away from them, though…

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 15, 2010 - 10:08am
msiddens · Climber
The 'biner of choice for many sport (and even trad) climbers, this 'biner has seen a decline due to lighter wiregates. Having said that they remain my favorite overall 'biner for sport and workhorse situations. Heavy but BEEFY, easy to clip and hard to miss. GREAT when the pressure is on to close down on the runout. Give up booze to save some weight and carry these on your rack.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 14, 2010 - 10:58am
Mike. · Climber
Credit where it's due: Rock Exotica is the manufacturer of this biner for Petzl.

This biner is my favorite for small racks of nuts. It's also my choice for aiders--that sleek, notch-less nose and perfect geometry goes on and off constricted spaces like mangled pin eyes like no other. I would only try a wiregatefor this app if it was notch-less. I don't believe in the myth of "biner shift" regarding this use. Still waiting to feel that…

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Petzl Spirit Express Carabiner
Credit: Chris McNamara
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