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Black Diamond Oz Review

   
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Carabiner

  • Currently 4.0/5
Overall avg rating 4.0 of 5 based on 9 reviews. Most recent review: July 9, 2011
Street Price:   Varies from $8 - $9 | Compare prices at 8 resellers
Pros:  Light, easy to handle
Cons:  Expensive, gate gets hung up on bolt hangers
Best Uses:  sport climbing, trad climbing, big wall climbing
User Rating:     
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 (3.6 of 5) based on 8 reviews
Recommendations:  75% of reviewers (6/8) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ March 22, 2010  
Overview
The New Black Diamond Oz is upgraded with a snag free HoodWire nose and it is two grams lighter than the old Black Diamond Oz weighing in at 28 grams.

Below is a review of the old version of the Black Diamond Oz. We will have an updated review of the new Oz soon.

The Oz is a lightweight (28 grams) small to medium sized, multiple use, wire-gate carabiner. When Tommy Caldwell first handed me an Oz Quickdraw, I had to lift it up and down a few times. I was trying to feel weight that was not there. These things are light! When I put a bunch of them on my harness and felt the difference in weight, I was sold.

That said, the Oz has a lot of competition. It is just as light as the Wild Country Astro and a little more expensive. Compared to the Wild Country Astro, it holds three figure eight knots a bit better but doesn't unclip from bolt hangers quite as easily. It also performed very similarly to the Trango SuperFly. While this used to be the lightest carabiner, that title now belongs to the CAMP Nano 23. The Nano is probably a better alpine climbing biner where every ounce counts (it is also less expensive). That said, the Oz does a better job than the Nano at balancing being lightweight and functional. Overall, the Black Diamond Oz is one of the best light carabiners out there.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
For someone who loves light gear, the Oz carabiner is a dream. Not only is it among the lightest carabiners, it also feels solid. When the Black Diamond Neutrino came out it seemed revolutionary. I instantly updated my aid climbing rack and saved many pounds in the process. It is hard to believe, but the Oz is 25 percent lighter than the Neutrino 28g compared to 36g for the Neutrino. While this carabiner is small, it's not so small that it is difficult to handle. A biner like the CAMP Nano 23 or Metolius FS Mini can feel a little hard to handle confidently and clip. The OZ is just big enough where clipping and holding it is easy.

Dislikes
As with most all wire-gate carabiners the notch for the wire gets caught up on bolt hangers when cleaning steep sport routes. This is not a big deal for trad climbing or alpine climbing. The notch also gets caught up when removing racked nuts.

Best Application
These work great in just about any application, whether it is big wall climbing, trad climbing top roping or most sport climbing applications. They are especially awesome for alpine rock climbing where you want to be as light as possible for those monster approaches. On a big wall they will dramatically reduce the weight of your rack, especially if you are still using oval biners - Stop using ovals now! If you are buying these for sport climbing, we recommend buying the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw.

Value
These are not cheap. They are among the more expensive small wire gate carabiners. By comparison, the Mad Rock Ultra-Light Straight is almost as high scoring and is only $6.

Other Versions
Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw - Dynex dogbone with two Oz Carabiners - $19

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: July 9, 2011
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (3.6)

75% of 8 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
9 Total Ratings
5 star: 22%  (2)
4 star: 44%  (4)
3 star: 22%  (2)
2 star: 11%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 8 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
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   Nov 25, 2010 - 06:56pm
Auto-X Fil · Climber
31grams on my scale, too. Boo!

Still, awesome 'biner. Fits my hands well and I rarely feel the need for a Hotwire or other large-gate 'biner, but I also don't make hard clips often. I have 20 on my rack and the weight savings are big.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Nov 15, 2010 - 10:31am
khoa · Climber · 303
Agreed, they actually weigh more like 31g a piece. Which is kind of a big deal (10% heavier). I own other lightweight biners and some of them are actually lighter than advertised. Mammut moses (~25/26g vs 27g)

Pretty bad and/or false advertising, especially if they're gonna call this the "oz" I would love it if Black Diamond sold weed. I have an old one that actually weighed an oz exactly (28.3g), so it seems something happened or their QC is lacking nowadays

Not being picky, just sayin'

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Oct 16, 2010 - 04:59pm
Tradhead · Climber · Seattle, WA
31g each on my calibrated kitchen scale, not 28g as claimed by BD. In light of the extra 10% actual weight, not as good as some other choices IMO such as the WC Helium or Mad Rock Ultralight.

I won't buy more as they're not cheap and are somewhat small for their weight. I am also a little bitter about the false weight claim by the manufacturer…

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jul 9, 2011 - 12:34am
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Overpriced, if you have the money sure…but why pay more when you can get the Mammut or Mad Rock equivalent for cheaper? Good biner though

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   May 5, 2011 - 03:52pm
spidey · Climber · Berkeley CA
Great biner - I have about 40-50 of them. Not too small, very light, seem strong and well made. But the weight issue bugs me too.

THEY DO NOT WEIGH 28 grams. In general, I really like BD and the stuff they make is generally very high quality, but they are seriously fudging the numbers on this one. Makes me wonder what else they might be fudging on.

As a few others have said, they consistently weigh 30-31 grams on my kitchen scale. I just weighed 10 of them. 5 measured 30 grams, the other 5 31 grams. All 10 together weighed 305 grams. So they seem to average 30.5 grams per biner, in a completely scientific study in my kitchen.

I have a few DMM phantoms also - these weigh 27 grams on the same scale.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Oct 2, 2010 - 09:37pm
Hummerchine · Climber · East Wenatchee, WA
Wow…never ceases to amaze me how we all look at things different! Personally, I think the Oz is a fantastic carabiner; the size strikes me as pretty much IDEAL. The other posters here think it's too large, and I respect their opinion, even though I disagree. Personally, the only reason I did not give it 5 stars is because I think it's too heavy! I'd actually give it 4.5 stars. I think the best 'biner on the market right now is the DMM Phantom, at 25 grams and a wonderful size also. I think the CAMP Nano 23, along with the Metolius FS 23 or whatever it is called is great too…just perhaps a bit small, which I personally don't have much of a problem with. You get used to the size in like…an hour or two! So hey, let's settle on a reasonable size with amazing light weight and full strength…

The DMM Phantom.

Perhaps a close second would be the Oz, with lower strength, higher weight, yet MAYBE a TAD better size…MAYBE!

I go back to thinking the DMM Phantom is the best 'biner on the market!!!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 11, 2010 - 11:21am
ps · Climber
3.75 stars :D

The size is still on the small side for my liking. At least it's not quite as small as a neutrino… can't stand the size of that thing.

The weight is awesome.

Too bad they dont come in a couple colors so you could designate a "bolt" clipping biner on your draws.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 17, 2010 - 09:54am
msiddens · Climber
I'm impressed with these 'biners. I know, shame on me for just about anything BD makes impresses me. Still though having been a fan of Hotwire's since they first came out, them moving onto Neutrinos, and ultimately looking to follow suit with the Oz. Not a 'biner that I plan on replacing all my other lightweight 'biners with, I still think there is room on the rack for these.

Great, strong, predictable and light.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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