Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Light, easy to handle
Cons: Expensive, gate gets hung up on bolt hangers
Best Uses: sport climbing, trad climbing, big wall climbing
Manufacturer: Black Diamond
The New Black Diamond Oz is upgraded with a snag free HoodWire nose and it is two grams lighter than the old Black Diamond Oz weighing in at 28 grams.
Below is a review of the old version of the Black Diamond Oz. We will have an updated review of the new Oz soon.
The Oz is a lightweight (28 grams) small to medium sized, multiple use, wire-gate carabiner. When Tommy Caldwell first handed me an Oz Quickdraw, I had to lift it up and down a few times. I was trying to feel weight that was not there. These things are light! When I put a bunch of them on my harness and felt the difference in weight, I was sold.
That said, the Oz has a lot of competition. It is just as light as the Wild Country Astro and a little more expensive. Compared to the Wild Country Astro, it holds three figure eight knots a bit better but doesn't unclip from bolt hangers quite as easily. It also performed very similarly to the Trango SuperFly. While this used to be the lightest carabiner, that title now belongs to the CAMP Nano 23. The Nano is probably a better alpine climbing biner where every ounce counts (it is also less expensive). That said, the Oz does a better job than the Nano at balancing being lightweight and functional. Overall, the Black Diamond Oz is one of the best light carabiners out there.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
For someone who loves light gear, the Oz carabiner is a dream. Not only is it among the lightest carabiners, it also feels solid. When the Black Diamond Neutrino came out it seemed revolutionary. I instantly updated my aid climbing rack and saved many pounds in the process. It is hard to believe, but the Oz is 25 percent lighter than the Neutrino 28g compared to 36g for the Neutrino. While this carabiner is small, it's not so small that it is difficult to handle. A biner like the CAMP Nano 23 or Metolius FS Mini can feel a little hard to handle confidently and clip. The OZ is just big enough where clipping and holding it is easy.
As with most all wire-gate carabiners the notch for the wire gets caught up on bolt hangers when cleaning steep sport routes. This is not a big deal for trad climbing or alpine climbing. The notch also gets caught up when removing racked nuts.
These work great in just about any application, whether it is big wall climbing, trad climbing top roping or most sport climbing applications. They are especially awesome for alpine rock climbing where you want to be as light as possible for those monster approaches. On a big wall they will dramatically reduce the weight of your rack, especially if you are still using oval biners - Stop using ovals now! If you are buying these for sport climbing, we recommend buying the Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw.
These are not cheap. They are among the more expensive small wire gate carabiners. By comparison, the Mad Rock Ultra-Light Straight is almost as high scoring and is only $6.
Black Diamond Oz Quickdraw - Dynex dogbone with two Oz Carabiners - $19
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: July 9, 2011
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