Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Durable, easy to hold.
Cons: Heavier than most other biners.
Best Uses: Sport climbing, trad climbing, big wall climbing.
This was the first carabiner we know of made with the revolutionary "wiregate" design. At first, they scared people. Today wire-gate carabiners are among the most popular because they are light, strong, and reduce gate shutter (the effect of the gate partially opening during a fall). While this carabiner once was the only one, there are now many to choose from. Still this remains a solid carabiner at a good price. We generally prefer a lighter biner like the Black Diamond Oz or Wild Country Astro.
View our complete Carabiner Review to see how this product compared to others.
Recently the Hotwire got and update: it is now hot-forged and 20% lighter while maintaining the same size.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
The Black Diamond Hotwire scored well in most categories. It scores above average for ease of clipping. It held three figure eight knots very well (it's roomy). As with all biners with the wire-gate design the gate is less likely to get frozen shut on alpine routes and the slightly hooded nose helps protect gate from getting inadvertently rubbed/pushed opened.
As with most carabiners with the wire-gate design the notch gets caught up on the bolt hanger when cleaning steep routes. The notch also gets caught up when racking nuts.
This is an all-around carabiner light enough for trad or even big wall climbing but just the right medium size to be easily to clipped on a sport route or with a gloved hand on an alpine route.
Overall toward the good end of value. Not one of the cheapest biners but not the most expensive either. Because it is so popular, you might find it on sale in our Price Finder.
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: September 2, 2010
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