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How We Test
We used these devices in the gym, cragging, and on multi-pitch trad and sport climbing, but mostly on big wall/big wall free climbing situations. We caught (sometimes very large) whippers on both one and two ropes and rappelled down big walls and long descent gullies.
We then went to the gym and top roped and lead belayed thousands of times, comparing and contrasting each device to the others. We passed around devices to friends to see what they preferred and what were the most and least intuitive devices for beginners.
At our local cliff and at the base of Glacier Point in Yosemite we set up four fixed lines: 8.5mm, 9.4mm and 10.2mm and 10.5mm. We then rappelled each line over and over to assess friction and lock off.
We weighed all these devices on the same postal scale to get an accurate comparison of weights.
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