Hands-on Gear Review

DMM V Twin Review

   

Belay Devices

  • Currently 3.3/5
Overall avg rating 3.3 of 5 based on 2 reviews. Most recent review: May 27, 2010
Street Price:   $26 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros:  Durable, cool looking
Cons:  Expensive, not a lot of friction when lowering, steel digs into aluminum biners
Best Uses:  Cragging
User Rating:     
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 (3.7 of 5) based on 1 reviews
Manufacturer:   DMM
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ December 27, 2009  
Overview
This is the only belay device we tested that is made of stainless steel — most others use some form of aluminum. This gives the device a burly feel and cool look that sets it apart. It is the only device with friction teeth that don't wear down. DMM is known for its cool looking products and this is no exception.

  • Photos
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
What sets this apart from all other devices is the stainless steel construction that gives it a durable feeling. This is the only device that did not show any wear after extended belaying. It also just looks cool. When selecting from a bunch of devices, most people headed for this one. It looks like it is made of that molten stuff the bad guy in Terminator 2 morphed into.

The DMM V Twin payed out rope as well as other top contenders such as the ATC XP. There are rubber dots on the side of the device that give you something to pinch when the device heats up. This is useful at the bottom of the rappel when you are taking the device off the rope.

Dislikes
The V Twin delivers much less friction than most other devices. When lowering a climber at the crags, the belayer wanted to have a belay glove. For skinny ropes, it is especially important to have a glove or to lower really slowly. Also, when a climber is hanging on a route, it takes more effort to hold the climber than with other devices.

While this is a durable device, the hard steel takes a toll on belay biners. This means you either accept extra grooves on your belay biner or use a heavy steel biner to belay with. The V Twin's steel construction also means the device is toward the heavy end of all devices tested.

Best Application
This is ideal for heavy cragging with bigger ropes. If you teach classes or put lots of abuse on your device, the V Twin will last longer than most other devices.

Value
At $26, this is one of the most expensive tube style belay devices. It will last a long time, so long term value is good.

Chris McNamara

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DMM V Twin

   
Compare this product side-by-side to other belay devices

OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews of DMM V Twin


Most recent review: May 27, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.7)

100% of 1 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 25%  (1)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 25%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 1 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
Write a Review on this Gear

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   May 27, 2010 - 08:42am
ps · Climber
I've had this device for 3 years now… still looks brand new! Even after trashing this thing with all sorts of southern utah sandstone routes… and canyoneering where this thing gets sandblasted with sand and water on ropes. This things handles wear like no other.

Couple things:

1. This Belay Device is awesome for taking the abuse of sandstone climbing that can groove out Belay Devices really quick with sandy ropes running through them.

2. Simple style, just like any tube device. No cons compared to the BD ATC XP or any other similar device. Works well on both thick and thin ropes… not sure where the reviewers are getting that feedback from. I feel that this device is similar and equal in function to the XP.

3. Steel. This is the defining characteristic of this device. If you want a device that lasts, pick this thing up. There is nothing on the market that can compare concerning durability. To my knowledge, this is the only steel device on the market, and even though it's steel, it's still almost as light as any aluminum device out there.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Click to enlarge
Dmm V Twin. Note the rubber on the side you can pinch when it gets too hot.
Credit: DMM
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