Black Diamond ATC Review

Likes
The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. For the ropes thicker than 10mm, this device held its own. If you want this device to have just a little more friction, you can use a carabiner like the Black Diamond Vaporlock that adds in friction. It won't as much as the ATC XP but will help.

Dislikes
We generally climb on 9.4-9.7mm ropes. For these, we like to have friction grooves for better stopping power, so we reach for the VC Pro II or ATC XP. Additionally, we burn through belay devices when rapping in the Fisher Towers, bailing off El Cap and during heavy cragging situations and so we like a device with thick tube stock. What’s wrong with thin tube stock? With heavy use the rope wears it out and the metal becomes sharp. This probably isn’t something that will cut the rope, but it doesn’t give you a warm feeling, either.

Personal Stories
A decade ago, before Chris Van Leuven could afford a Petzl GriGri, he bought the ATC as his sole belay device for use on such big walls as Leaning Tower’s West Face and El Cap’s Shield. He cringes at that idea now – too many what–ifs during lengthy belay sessions – but this device still works great for most other climbing/rappelling situations.

What surprised CVL most about the ATC is the dedication climbers have towards this classic device. Several testers said that there’s nothing wrong with the ATC, so they’re glad that it hasn’t changed in 20 years. The ATC has been their go-to device for most of their climbing careers and they don’t plan on changing this anytime soon. If you have this device, it has never been dropped and the clip–in cable is in good working order, stick with it.

Best Application
Climbing with 10mm or above ropes? Looking for a simple belay/rappel device to use for a leader or to get off the top of your climb? The ATC gets the job done in a simple, affordable package.

Personal Stories
Chris Van Leuven: "I've taken the ATC up more climbs that I can remember. It’s not that I have a particularly bad memory, rather that I climbed with the device for 10 years or more. On my first-ever climbing trip to J-Tree in ’92 I used it to belay Solid Gold (10a). In '95, '96, I took it up my first handfull of big walls; it caught my first aid whipper on Leaning Tower’s West Face. And it was excellent for lowering bags out on the Shield. I’ve burned through probably three ATCs over the years. When the original Wild Country VC came out I switched to that due to its thicker tube stock and friction grooves."

Value
At $19 the ATC is one of the better priced belay devices. That said, there are some higher scoring devices for less that are probably more durable. You can save a little on the ATC and locking carabiner by buying the Big Air Package which retails for $32 but can often be found on sale.